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General info:
Schott NYC (Schott Bros) is an American clothing manufacturing company located in New York City. The company was founded in 1913 by brothers Irving and Jack Schott. Schott NYC was the first company to put a zipper on a jacket[1][2][3] and they created the classic Perfecto motorcycle jacket, which was made popular by films such as The Wild One (1953). The company made clothing for the United States Armed Forces during World War II and later also for American law enforcement. Schott NYC is still owned by the Schott family and still manufacture much of their clothing in the United States.
Contents
1 The Perfecto motorcycle jacket
2 Other classic jacket designs
3 External links
4 References
The Perfecto motorcycle jacket
Main article: Perfecto motorcycle jacket
A Schott 613 Perfecto motorcycle jacket
Schott NYC is perhaps most well known for their Perfecto motorcycle jackets. In 1928 Irving Schott designed and produced the first ever leather motorcycle jacket, he named it the "Perfecto" after his favorite cigar. The jackets were made out of horsehide, had a belted front, D-pocket, flap change pocket, zippered sleeve cuffs and shoulder epaulettes. This classic motorcycle jacket was a double riders jacket design which meant that one part of the front zipper was located a couple of inches in. When zipped up this created a seal where no air would pass through when riding a motorcycle.
In the late 1940s a new design was introduced - the 613. It was nicknamed "the One Star" because it had a star on each shoulder epaulette. In the early 1950s another version of the jacket was introduced - the 618. The 618 had no stars on the shoulder epaulettes. Stores that carried the jackets often had problems with people stealing the stars of the 613 so the 618 became more commercially viable. Marlon Brando wore a 618 in the movie The Wild One (1953), the stars on his jacket were not original but added to the jacket. There has been no word on where this jacket is today. Because of the film, which was the first outlaw biker movie, the black motorcycle jacket became synonymous with bad attitude and was banned from many American schools during the 1950s.
U.S. seminal punk rock band The Ramones wore Schott Perfecto leather jackets as part of their distinctive uniform look. Japanese rock band Guitar Wolf have their own 613 Perfecto design called 613GW.
Other classic jacket designs
During World War II Schott NYC (being one of several contractors) manufactured the wool naval pea coat for the US Navy.[4] These classic designs are still manufactured by Schott NYC today. Another classic jacket design manufactured by the company is the Café racer leather motorcycle jacket. Café racer jackets are single rider jackets that have a stand-up collar. Peter Fonda wore a Café racer style jacket in the movie Easy Rider (1969).
External links
Official website
References
 Cooper, Wilbert L. (2013-03-08). "The First Wild One: The origin of the motorcycle jacket". Vice Magazine. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
 "Schott NYC Perfecto: The original rebel jacket". 2016. Archived from the original on 2016-11-04. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
 Tanaka, Rin (December 10, 2012). Schott NYC: 100 Years of an American Original. Japan: Cycleman Book. p. 160. ISBN 978-0988918900.
 International Directory of Company Histories, Volume 67, Jay P. Pederson, Gale, 2 Feb 2005
Categories: Clothing companies of the United StatesManufacturing companies based in New York CityClothing companies established in 19131913 establishments in New York City
The Classic American Success Story
Schott's heritage is a true-blue, real-deal, piece of Americana. The iconic styles produced by hand for over 100 years have become infused in American culture and have served as battle flags for the American spirit.
Perfecto® label inside vintage leather jacket
In 1913, as Ford's new Model T began to crowd the already bustling streets of New York City, two brothers, the sons of a Russian immigrant, went after their piece of the American Dream. Irving and Jack Schott started making raincoats in a basement on the Lower East Side of Manhattan which were then sold by street peddlers door to door. Irving Schott's leather jackets were lovingly branded with the name of his favorite cigar - the Perfecto. By the mid-twenties, Schott NYC was revolutionizing the way Americans dressed for the outdoors when they were the first to put a zipper on a jacket. Eager to innovate, it was no surprise that Irving Schott then set his sights on another American classic in the making - the motorcycle. In 1928, Irving Schott designed and produced the first leather motorcycle jacket. Retailing for $5.50 at a Long Island Harley Davidson distributor, the Perfecto® was durable, rugged, and immediately embraced. To this new generation of "bikers," the Perfecto® was a symbol of the excitement, adventure and danger that fueled their fascination with motorcycles.
Vintage photos of fighter pilots in their leather jackets / General George Patton in sheepskin leather jacket
But as the country and the world turned its attention overseas, so did Schott. Commissioned by the US Air Force at the start of WWII, Irving Schott designed and produced a "bomber jacket" that would serve and protect Our Boys as they fought for liberty in the air over Europe and the Pacific. And on deck, servicemen kept out the cold with Schott's classic melton wool naval pea coat. Rugged and warm, these leather and wool jackets would be produced by Schott for the US Military
for the next 60 years.
Marlon Brando in Schott Leather Jacket in the movie The Wild One / James Dean in leather jacket
With WWII over, this country was witnessing the rise of a new rebellion one that would be fought with fast cars and Rock and Roll. In 1954, the now cult classic "The Wild Ones" featured the hot young actor, Marlon Brando, perched on his motorcycle wearing his Schott Perfecto®. The subsequent spike in popularity of the Perfecto® surprisingly resulted in decreased sales. The jackets were banned by school systems around the country because they symbolized a burgeoning teen demographic, the hoodlum. Just one year later, the Perfecto® was catapulted to the height of its popularity when a love for speed ended the life of the quintessential hoodlum. It is said that James Dean could hardly ever be seen without his Perfecto®.
The band The Ramones in their Schott Perfecto® Jackets / Lead singer in a rock band wearing a leather jacket / Joan Jett in Schott Perfecto® Jacket
Throughout the 70s and 80s Schott became synonymous with the punk rock movement. The current wave of rebellion came to the streets of downtown New York City through underground music venue, CBGB. The Schott Perfecto® was the uniform for rock stars like The Ramones, Blondie, Joan Jett and The Sex Pistols.
Exterior of the Schott Factory in the 1980sRacks of Schott and Perfecto® labels 
As the world grew smaller and international trade became common place through online shopping and global markets, Schott expanded overseas where "Made in America" was revered and coveted. Peacoats, Duffle coats, flight jackets, motorcycle jackets, nylon outerwear, knits and sportswear became available worldwide as Schott NYC represented the heritage of America and the rebel inside everyone.
The classic Schott Perfecto® label with motorcycle rider
2013 - Celebrating Schott's 100th Anniversary. As we celebrate our first hundred years, Schott NYC is still owned and run by the third and fourth generations of the Schott family who still manufacture most of their clothing in the United States. In an old brick building, the classic styles that have, and will continue to, connect with the American spirit are cut and sewn by the hands of trained craftspeople. There is a feeling with putting on a Perfecto® that cannot be replicated or described. It is a persona, the history of America's bad boy, seeped into the heavy cowhide and chrome hardware. A strong sense of American pride is behind every Peacoat's anchor buttons. The courage to face the uncertainty on the open road and all the freedom that comes with it, lives on in the hearts of the Schott family as they look towards the next hundred years as a true American Original.
Company Perspectives:
We are a true-blue, real-deal, piece of Americana. Quality, innovation, and individuality define everything we do and every jacket we make. Whether protecting WWII fly boys in the air over Europe or infuriating the establishment on the backs of Brando and Dean, our jackets have become infused in American culture and have served as battle flags for the American spirit.
Key Dates:
1913:
Schott Bros. is founded by Irving and Jack Schott.
1915:
Company opens manufacturing facility in Staten Island; puts "Perfecto" label on outerwear.
1925:
Irving Schott is the first clothier to sew a zipper on a jacket.
1928:
Schott Bros. designs the first leather motorcycle jacket; manufacturing facility moves to South Amboy, New Jersey.
1930:
Schott Bros. supplies "bomber jackets" to World War II pilots.
1940:
Manufacturing moves to Perth Amboy, New Jersey.
1954:
Schott motorcycle jackets are popularized by Marlon Brando in The Wild Ones.
1963:
Schott Bros. begins selling "Perfecto" jackets in Europe.
1985:
Company moves to 250,000-square-foot facility in Perth Amboy.
1993:
Schott introduces classic naval pea coats.
1997:
Company adds its first line exclusively for women.
1998:
Company acquires U.B. TUFF.
2003:
Schott re-releases limited edition replica of original "Perfecto" jacket.
Company History:
Schott Brothers, Inc. is one of the largest manufacturers of American-made men's and women's outerwear. The company is most well known for its tradition of creating quality leather jackets, especially the Schott "Perfecto." The "Perfecto" is the original biker jacket made famous by actor Marlon Brando in the 1950s classic film The Wild Ones. Schott's signature apparel is manufactured at the 250,000-square-foot company headquarters in Perth Amboy, New Jersey. Schott sells its handmade quality jackets and accessories worldwide. The company product line has evolved from the original sheepskin-lined raincoats sold door-to-door in New York City, to more than 100 different garments and accessories in men's and women's outerwear and sportswear lines, which are sold in retail stores and through the Internet. The company produces and sells approximately 350,000 to 400,000 apparel items annually.
Four generations of the Schott family have been involved in overseeing the privately owned specialty apparel business. The family has made it a priority to maintain the commitment to handcrafted quality intended by founder Irving Schott. In addition to the traditional leather outerwear created by Schott, the company produces wool peacoats, as well as jackets made from corduroy, down, and sateen. Schott's clothing lines include retro, motorcycle, American classic, military, wool, nylon, and women's lines.
A Humble Beginning: 1913-20s
In 1913, Irving Schott, son of Russian immigrants, founded Schott Bros. with his brother Jack. Their first humble workspace was in the basement of a tenement building on Manhattan's Lower East Side. There they hand cut and sewed sheepskin-lined raincoats, which were sold door-to-door. According to the creators, durability and functionality were the primary features of their high quality, handcrafted jackets.
Two years later the brothers had generated enough business to move to a manufacturing site in Staten Island. That same year Irving gave the brand name "Perfecto" to Schott Bros. leather jackets. The "Perfecto" name referred to Irving's favorite Cuban cigars, which were a regular accessory of the company founder. Schott's Perfecto jacket would be recognized as the finest American-made leather jacket for more than 30 years.
In the 1920s Irving and Jack were recognized as innovators in the apparel industry. First they revolutionized American-made outerwear by being the first in the industry to sew a zipper on a jacket. They also benefited from the emergence and growing popularity of motorcycles. In 1928 Irving had a vision of what would become an American classic when he designed and produced the first motorcycle jacket. Wool linings made it warmer, heavy grade leather made it protective when necessary, and a zipper made it more wind and weather resistant. That classic leather jacket sold for just $5.50 at a Harley Davidson dealer on Long Island. According to the Schott web site, "The Perfecto was durable, rugged, and immediately embraced. To this new generation of 'bikers,' the Perfecto was a symbol of the excitement, adventure and danger that fueled their fascination with motorcycles." To accommodate sales growth, Schott Bros. moved its manufacturing operation to South Amboy, New Jersey.
Outfitting the Military: 1930s-40s
Schott Bros. quality was recognized by the U.S. Air Force prior to World War II. The company was commissioned to design and manufacture "bomber jackets" for Air Force pilots. In addition, Schott Bros. became a major supplier of the U.S. military forces fighting abroad with nylon flyers for the Air Force and pea coats for the Navy. A tradition of providing for the American military forces was begun, and it continued for 60 years.
In 1940 Schott again moved its manufacturing business--design, production and storage--this time to nearby Perth Amboy, New Jersey. By 1947 a second generation joined in managing the business--Irving's son Mel.
Big Screen Exposure: 1950s
Schott Bros. apparel made its big screen debut in 1954 when Marlon Brando wore a Perfecto jacket in the cult classic The Wild Ones. The Perfecto gained national exposure and instant popularity, but sales declined because school districts banned the jackets due to their association with youth rebelliousness. By that time the Schotts had decided to reserve the Perfecto label for only their finest motorcycle jackets. Sales figures soon turned around for the Perfecto jacket, however. The following year, sales increased after the death of James Dean; the "hood" who often donned a Perfecto, "catapulted the motorcycle jacket back in vogue," according to the Schott web site. The jacket retailed for $49.
Up until the 1960s, the Schott family's focus was on the production side of the business. Irving prided himself on knowing how to operate and repair every machine and tool in the factory. When Milton Perlman joined the company in the 1960s, however, Schott Bros. began to develop a vision that revolved around sales. Perlman was very involved in the business outside of the shop. He would visit stores that sold Schott apparel, listen to their feedback, and respond to it. Perlman's sales vision helped place Schott Bros. on a growth curve for several decades.
Developing Sales Markets: 1960s-80s
Along with Mel Schott, Perlman worked to develop new sales markets for Schott outerwear throughout the United States and abroad. By 1963 the company began marketing the Perfecto jacket in Europe. At home American teens and young adults could be seen in Schott's leather and fringe style vests. It was the 60s, and Schott was part of the unique fashion scene. Perlman also helped the company design and introduce the western leather fringe jacket as well as non-leather jackets. Because the fringe on the popular western jackets had to be cut by hand, the company soon invested in an automated fringe machine.
By the mid-1980s, Mel's son Michael and daughter Roz were on board with the family business, beginning a new generation of family leadership. In 1985 the company moved to a new location in Perth Amboy, a 250,000-square-foot building on Lehigh Street. It was the size of four square blocks. The following year Mel became president of Schott Bros., while 94-year-old Irving retained his title as chairman and CEO. Six years later Irving died, just months from his 100th birthday.
"It's hard to pinpoint exactly when black leather went from outlaw to chic," wrote Robin Updike in the Baltimore Sun. But that acceptance of an expanding leather jacket market would benefit Schott Bros. even though there were significantly more companies in the United States and abroad competing for leather consumers. Schott was committed to its history of quality handcrafted jackets made from the finest leather. That unwavering commitment to quality helped Schott maintain sales despite competition from inexpensive imports.
Expanding Globally: 1990s
By 1993 Schott Bros. had reached $60 million in sales worldwide. In addition to benefiting from worldwide distribution of its apparel through specialty stores on nearly every continent, Schott also gained from relationships with licensees in several countries. In the company's 80th year, Schott Bros. boasted 500 employees worldwide, who had helped produce 350,000 jackets. The Perfecto's price tag had grown to $300.
New apparel lines and a broader distribution market helped Schott achieve sales growth in the 90s. The company also introduced lines of handbags, belts, classically designed travel bags, and even Schott Perfecto school supplies. In addition, Schott brought back the traditional naval peacoat, but with a modern twist. The peacoat came in a variety of colors, rather than just the traditional navy blue. The classic melton wool naval peacoat was Schott's top seller in 1994. The company offered consumers a leather peacoat as well.
In 1994 Schott Bros. was again commissioned to supply the U.S. military. The Department of Defense contracted with Schott Bros. to manufacture jackets for the Air Force. The company unveiled its first women's line in 1997. The new line was the Rose Schott Collection, named for Irving's wife. Schott also expanded outerwear fabric selection, using wearnyl, fleece, and kings wool. Branching out beyond just the leather jacket market helped the company weather the cyclical nature of the leather industry. Because Schott had diversified over the years, the ups and downs of the leather market did not exert such a big impact on its bottom line.
Schott Bros. took a brief foray into the urban hip-hop market in 1998 when it acquired U.B. TUFF, a manufacturer of urban sportswear and outerwear for men and boys. It was Schott Bros. first acquisition, but it did not last long. The enterprise, which targeted a lower price customer base, quickly dissolved not long after it began.
During the late 1990s Schott began to broaden the production line through overseas manufacturing. Some garments just could not be produced at a competitive price in the U.S. plant. Nylon jackets, for example, were more labor intensive and less costly to produce abroad. The availability and quality of raw materials also had an impact on what Schott produced at home. The company put procedures in place to maintain the Schott standard of quality and attention to detail regardless of where the item was created. Generally, the apparel produced overseas were items new to the Schott collection. The company was committed, however, that its classic and signature styles would always be produced in the United States to ensure strict adherence to quality. Schott built relationships with licensees and manufacturing partners in Germany, France, China, and South America, and more recently in Russia.
Making Gains Abroad: 2000 and Beyond
In 2002 Schott Bros. began selling online. Because the Schott collection had grown so broad, the Internet store was one way for the company to make its entire line available to new and returning loyal customers. Most retail stores carried only a portion of the Schott Bros. apparel collection. Internet sales became a small but growing percentage of the company's sales. The Internet was also a way for Schott to connect with its customers. The home page linked to a Blog section where visitors were invited to "share the great things that have happened to you in a Schott jacket. ..."
The Schott Bros. brand had grown in popularity worldwide, especially in Europe where consumers often had a greater appreciation for the classic American styles. Brand recognition and sales were frequently higher in Europe and Asia than in the United States. In Japan, Schott Bros.' reversible sheepskin coat won first place in the "hot fashion contest" at the U.S. Apparel Show in Tokyo in 2002. It was part of the International Fashion Fair, the largest fashion trade show in Japan. The coat scored high both on design and material.
While Schott Bros. expanded its product line to include suede shirts and leather pants, the company regularly brought back replicas of vintage top sellers. In 2003 Schott re-released a limited edition replica of the original Perfecto jacket, a top-of-the-line motorcycle jacket made entirely in the United States. Despite the price tag of $475, sales were strong.
By 2004 more than half of Schott's production still took place domestically, where the company could turn out the products faster and the Schott family could be directly involved in the daily manufacturing process. Exports continued as a large percentage of Schott's annual sales. The Schott family's third and fourth generations were successfully managing and nurturing Irving's venture--with Roz Schott as president; her son Jason as chief marketing officer; Steve Conlin (Mel's son-in-law) as chief executive officer; and Michael's son Oren as chief production officer. (Michael Schott died in 1997 of pancreatic cancer. He had been company president since 1994.) Family members remained committed to knowing every facet of the business, just as great grandfather Irving had. They appeared to possess that same commitment to quality and attention to detail of their company founder.
For 2005, the company refocused outerwear lines into Schott Luxe, for better men's stores; Schott West, western wear; and Schott Work, work wear. The streamlined product lines were developed for a fall 2005 release. The leather jacket market remained strong for Schott, with sales up 15 percent in 2004. The company also planned to move to a smaller, newer facility in Elizabeth, New Jersey, just ten miles from the current headquarters. The company sold its 100-year-old building as part of a city redevelopment project.
Principal Subsidiaries: Schott NYC Corp.
Principal Competitors: Vanson; Marc New York; Energie.
Further Reading:
Czabala, Nancy, "It's Schott to Be Good" Apparel Industry Magazine, Atlanta, January 1997, Vol. 58 , Issue 1, pp. 14-16.
Hermann, Valli, "The Peacoat Resurfaces on a New Wave of Popularity," Austin American Statesman," December 1, 1994, p. E10.
"The History of Schott NYC," http://www.in2schott.dk.history.htm.
Interview with Jason Schott, Chief Marketing Officer, November 2004.
Johnson, Marylin, "Falling for a Classic: Navy-Inspired Peacoat Makes a Casual Statement," Houston Chronicle, November 29, 2001, p. 3.
Klara, Robert, "How to Be a Tough Guy (In One Easy Purchase)," US Airways Inflight Magazine, December 2004.
"Michael Schott (Obituary)," Women's Wear Daily, March 7, 1997, p. 24.
Parola, Robert, "Hot Schott," Daily News Record, January 23, 1989, p. 22.
"U.B. Tuff Acquired by Schott Bros.," Business Wire New York, July 16, 1998, p. 1.
Updike, Robin, "Black Leather, Long the Mark of the Wild Ones, Can Now Be Seen at the Opera," Baltimore Sun, November 25, 1993, p. 7F.
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Schott NYC – History, Philosophy, & Iconic Products
PROFILES  BRAND PROFILES
UPDATED: DEC 17, 2020  |  
PUBLISHED: DEC 9, 2020 
BY BEN KEEFE
110
People Shared
This Article
When it comes to the embodiment of Americana, few garments are as historic and versatile as the leather jacket. From its beginnings in the early 1900s to its omnipotent relevance in society today, the way leather jackets have endured throughout American history is not a coincidence, but rather a testament to its timeless charm amongst so many circles.
Getting its start as essential wear in among bikers and the Navy thanks to its durability, not only would this relationship continue—with its peak possibly coming in WWII—the jacket gained steam in sporting, hunting, manual labor, and motorcycling before getting picked up by Hollywood, musicians, and artists. And throughout its history, there is no brand more prevalent and ubiquitous than Schott NYC.
Schott History & Philosophy
Schott-NYC---History,-Philosophy,-&-Iconic-Products Schott NYC's orginal location on the Lower East Side of Manhattan
Schott NYC’s original location on the Lower East Side of Manhattan
Founded in 1913 by brothers Irving and Jack Schott in NYC, the company’s first product was a raincoat which they peddled door to door. By the mid-1920s, Schott was credited with being the first brand to put a zipper on a jacket. It had to start sometime right? In 1928, Irving Schott designed and produced the first motorcycle jacket which retailed for $5.50 at a Long Island Harley Davidson distributor. Christening it the Perfecto (allegedly after his favorite cigar), the Perfecto is from a time when form followed function,. Rather than zip-up the middle of the front, this jacket zips off-center at an angle, and over a placket so as not to let the wind in while on the bike.
Schott-NYC---History,-Philosophy,-&-Iconic-Products-The-Perfecto
a modern Schott Perfecto cia Schott NYC
 
How Schott manufacturers cool - Business Insider
Irving Schott, Co-founder of Schott NYC and creator of the Perfecto, via Business Insider
During World War II, Schott was contracted by the US Navy to make the classic 10 Button Pea Coat, Made from thick melton wool and featuring robust fastenings, wide cuffs, and large lapels, the Pea Coat was a fundamental utilitarian jacket that would become some of Schott’s calling cards.
Schott-NYC---History,-Philosophy,-&-Iconic-Products-A-U.S.-Navy-Officer-Wearing-a-Peacoat-via-Grailed
A U.S. Navy Officer Wearing a Peacoat via Grailed
Post-war, arguably the biggest thing to happen to leather jackets was a 1953 movie called The Wild One in which Marlon Brando, playing the rebellious leader of a biker gang, wears a ‘One Star’ later jacket made by Durable. Though this piece was not manufactured by Schott, Brando’s immortalized the leather double rider jacket, a style that Schott already championed with its Perfecto jacket.
Schott-NYC---History,-Philosophy,-&-Iconic-Products-Marlon-Brando-in-The-Wild-One-(1953)-wearing-a-Schott-perfecto
Marlon Brando in The Wild One (1953) wearing a Schott perfecto
The fact that school systems across the county banned the leather rider jackets in response to Brando’s character only made them more desirable. When the punk rock movement was building, the Schott Perfecto found yet another subculture to represent, with the likes of The Ramones, Joan Jett, and The Sex Pistols all wearing Perfectos adorned with pin badges and other accessories.
Schott-NYC---History,-Philosophy,-&-Iconic-Products-The-Ramones-Wearing-Schott-Perfectos-in-the-via-GQ
The Ramones Wearing Schott Perfectos in the via GQ
Schott Today
Schott-NYC---History,-Philosophy,-&-Iconic-Products-Newly-minted-Schott-jackets-await-shipments-to-stores-and-homes-around-the-globe
Newly minted Schott jackets await shipments to stores and homes around the globe
Fast forward to the current day and Schott is still firmly rooted in the pantheon of classic American brands. And with the growth of heritage wear, the brand is being introduced for the first time to a whole new generation of wearers. As well as its archetypal utilitarian jacket styles, Schott makes a range of time-honored clothing like wool overshirts, sweaters, as well as biker wear, and casual t-shirts.
Recently celebrating its 100 year anniversary in 2013, the brand has no plans of slowing down as they work towards the next hundred. After all this time, the company remains a family affair with the third and fourth generations of the Schott family still owning and running the show. And if this wasn’t enough of a feat, they have managed to keep most of their manufacturing in the United States.
MANWOMANJUNIORTHE BRAND
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The Brand  History of the Brand
History of the Brand
History of the Brand
Each Schott jacket has a history written over more than one hundred years by 4 generations of the Schott family. The brand is a true American story: pioneering spirit, daring, innovation, quality, creativity, characterize all of its achievements.
The American dream
Protecting young pilots in the skies of Europe in 1944 or provoking the Establishment with the black leathers worn by Marlon Brando or James Dean in the 1950s, Schott jackets entered American culture and became the standard bearers of the American spirit. An American success story that begins in 1913, with the Irving brothers and Jack Schott, sons of a Russian immigrant, determined to realize their American dream.
Iconic jackets
From 1928 until today, the history of Schott is marked by many key dates, here are some of them: creation and marketing of the first biker jacket that Irving will call Perfecto, participation in the design of bomber jackets for the US Air Corps and coats in collaboration with the US Navy, creation of jackets for the American Police as well as the creation of the first goose feather parkas.
An iconic brand
Over time, Schott has never stopped perfecting all of his iconic models. Schott is universally recognized as a key player and a major influencer in the fashion and artistic world. Today, the Schott family at their New Jersey plant still lives up to the core values ​​of founder Irving as they wait to welcome the fifth generation of Schott.
 
Schott-NYC---History,-Philosophy,-&-Iconic-Products-Jason-Schott,-Chief-Officer-of-Schott-NYC-and-fourth-generation-Schott-family-member-via-Scift
Jason Schott, Chief Officer of Schott NYC and fourth generation Schott family member via Scift
However, the way Schott has stayed true to their values doesn’t end with how the company is run, where the products are made, and the quality of the materials used – but of course extends to what garments they offer, at least 4 of which are almost exactly the same as their original patterns back in the day.
Iconic Products
Perfecto
Schott-NYC---History,-Philosophy,-&-Iconic-Products-The-Perfecto
The jacket that really started it all for Schott, the Perfecto is still made in the United States from drum dyed, hand-cut, heavyweight cowhide. Arguably the most recognizable if not the most iconic leather jacket ever made, it was a second skin for bikers before being immortalized by Hollywood and stays relevant to this day thanks to its distinct design and functionality.
Available from Schott NYC for $825
Bomber
Schott-NYC---History,-Philosophy,-&-Iconic-Products-The-Bomber
A nod to its military roots, the Bomber is based on the A-2 bomber jacket that Schott was contracted to produce during WWII. Striking the perfect balance between functionality and style, it’s a perfect way to wear leather while staying under the radar and without risking getting a bike brawl. Coming in many different materials and variations, there is a Bomber out there for everyone.
Available from Schott NYC for $975
Pea Coat
Schott-NYC---History,-Philosophy,-&-Iconic-Products-Schott-NYC---History,-Philosophy,-&-Iconic-Products-The-Pea-Coat
Another call back from their involvement in WWII, just involving a different branch of the military. The Pea Coat, as you may have guessed is not made of leather but wool and was created to handle even the harshest of conditions. Still made in the USA today, the timeless coat features nearly all the same details your grandpa remembers from his original.
Available from Schott NYC for $310 USD
Café Racer
Schott-NYC---History,-Philosophy,-&-Iconic-Products-Schott-NYC---History,-Philosophy,-&-Iconic-Products-Schott-NYC---History,-Philosophy,-&-Iconic-Products-The-Pea-Coat
In some ways the antithesis of the Perfecto, the Café Racer is a streamlined, stripped-down, no-nonsense variant that gained popularity in the 1960s. As the story goes, riders needed a simple, hard-wearing leather jacket to wear between pubs and cafes. Made in the USA with Schott’s renowned drum dyed, hand cut cowhide leather and beefy hardware.
Available from Schott NYC for $850
BOMBER JACKET CAFE RACER LEATHER LEATHER JACKET MADE IN USA PEACOAT PERFECTO SCHOTT NYC WOOL
Outsons | Men's Fashion Tips And Style GuidesSNEAKERSMEN’S HAIRGROOMINGTATTOOSFASHIONLIFESTYLEWRITE FOR US
Men's Fashion
THE HISTORY OF SCHOTT NYC
How Jason Schott of Schott NYC Is Driving the Brand’s Made-in-America Heritage
As one of the most iconic designers of leather jackets for men, the American powerhouse is steeped in rich history. Read on for the complete history of the brand.
As a brand that’s recently passed its centenary landmark, Schott NYC has proven their place as a true heritage brand in both the US and across the world. Thier iconic Perfecto jacket has remained one of the most popular pieces of outerwear for nearly 1oo years, being donned by celebrities through the decades. This, paired with its superior craftsmanship, has allowed it to maintain it’s status as a leader in an otherwise oversaturated market through the generations.
Read on for the complete history of Schott NYC.
The History of Schott NYC
1913 – 1950
Starting life in a Lower Manhattan basement in 1913, the Schott story is a classic tale of two brothers chasing the American Dream. Kicking off with rain coats and selling them door to door, Irving and Jack Schott quickly made a name for themselves on the busy streets of New York City. Soon after this, Irving was making a name for himself with some of the best leather jackets on the market named after his favourite cigar, the Perfecto – and the Schott brand was born.
By the 1920s the duo revolutionised outerwear by becoming the first people to put a zipper on a jacket. In doing so they managed to create the first ever leather motorcycle jacket. As the world was dragged into its second World War, the Schott brand was commissioned as the official supplier of bomber jackets for airmen and thick wool peacoats for the American men at sea. They went on to produce jackets and coats for the armed forces for the next 60 years.
mens schott nyc bomber jacket history
1950 – 1990
As WWII ended, Schott went onto dominating rock ‘n’ roll and the beginnings of pop culture. Famous actors such as Marlon Brando and James Dean wore their famous Schott Perfecto leather jacket, ultimately making the piece of clothing synonymous with sub-culture groups around America. This carried on through to the 80s when bands like The Sex Pistols and The Ramones donned the Schott leather jackets.
mens leather schott nye marlon brando street style
1990 – Present
In the decades following, Schott NYC’s popularity and sales grew nationally and across the globe as trade became easier and faster than ever. The ‘Made in America’ label quickly garnered world renown as a symbol of quality and style, and with Schott NYC embodying the rebellious movement in America – the sales reflected this popularity.
mens schott leather jacket street style
Now over 100 years old, Schott NYC  is a go-to brand for anyone looking for a more individual and rebellious look. You can bag your own bit of rebellion through their bombers, bikers, peacoats, and men’s shearling jackets. With a history stretching this far back and so full of daring pieces, you know you can trust a brand like Schott to give you that individual style we’re all after.
history of schott nye mens shearling jacket street style
thumbnail_tom-1-800x144“I recently got my hands on a leather jacket from Schott NYC and it’s not hard to see why this remains such an iconic brand. The classic design has stood the test of time and is just as stylish today as it would have been in the 50s.”
 
thumbnail_charlotte-800x144“For me, Schott NYC have always been about top quality bomber jackets. The combination of a leather jacket with a thick shearling lining makes this a perfect addition to any winter look. Team a Schott shearling jacket with a classic American denim shirt, or a thick knitwear jumper to finish the look.” 
 
Louise-Headshot“Schott NYC’s ability to innovate whilst maintaining a heritage aesthetic means they will always be a great brand. Their selection of modern field and down jackets is a perfect example of how they’re keeping up with the times. Wear one with a T-shirt and some casual chinos for a modern winter style.”
 
The History of Schott NYC
Starting life in a Lower Manhattan basement in 1913, the Schott story is a classic tale of two brothers chasing the American Dream.
By the 1920s this aspirational duo had revolutionised outerwear when they were the first people to put a zipper on a jacket.
Schott NYC made the first ever leather motorcycle jacket, retailing at only $5.50.
With the likes of Marlon Brando and James Dean wearing the famous Schott Perfecto leather jacket, sales quickly skyrocketed.
mens schott nyc perfecto leather biker jacket street style
Conclusion
While Scott NYC is still very popular to this day, the interesting backstory of how it all came about only adds to the allure. To think of a time when you couldn’t get a zipper on a jacket seems insane,  it’s easy to forget that, even in fashion, there’s always had to be pioneers at some point or another. Fancy picking yourself up a perfect Perfecto Jacket? Head on over to our brand page below to shop the collection.
Feature image from Pinterest
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Schott NYC History – From Selling Locally Door to Door to Digitally Worldwide
This entry was posted in Motorcycle Gear on April 25, 2019 by Bikers Den
Schott NYC Leather Motorcycle GearSchott’s heritage is a true-blue, real-deal, piece of Americana. The iconic styles produced by hand for over 100 years have become infused in American culture and have served as battle flags for the American spirit.  Begun by two brothers of a Russian immigrant, Schott NYC originally sold jackets – of all places – door to door.  Schott’s leather jackets were lovingly branded with the name of Irving Schott’s favorite cigar – the Perfecto. By the mid-twenties, Schott NYC was revolutionizing the way Americans dressed for the outdoors when they were the first to put a zipper on a jacket. Eager to innovate, it was no surprise that Irving Schott then set his sights on another American classic in the making – the motorcycle. In 1928, they designed and produced the first leather motorcycle jacket. Retailing for $5.50 at a Long Island Harley Davidson distributor, the Perfecto was durable, rugged, and immediately embraced.
Men's Schott NYC Leather Military and Flight JacketsAs the world descended into war in the 1940s, Schott was commissioned by the US Air Force at the start of WWII, Irving Schott designed and produced a “bomber jacket” that would serve and protect pilots and bomber crews and on deck, servicemen kept out the cold with Schott’s classic melton wool naval pea coat. Rugged and warm, these leather and wool jackets would be produced by Schott for the US Military for the next 60 years. In the years that followed the World War Two, actors like Marlon Brando and James Dean would come to symbolize the rebels that Schott had long ago helped create.
Now, over 100 years after two brothers began in a Manhattan basement, the world has grown smaller and digitized.  Schott, still run by the third and fourth generation, has continued to expand overseas where “Made in America” was revered and coveted. Peacoats, Duffle coats, flight jackets, motorcycle jackets, nylon outerwear, knits and sportswear became available worldwide as Schott NYC represented the heritage of America and the rebel inside everyone.  More importantly, though, Schott has remained true to their original ideas – craft a product out of the best materials and never sacrifice quality.
 
2 thoughts on “Schott NYC History – From Selling Locally Door to Door to Digitally Worldwide”
Reply ↓
Michael krichilsky
March 11, 2021 at 10:17 am
My wife didn’t allow me to wear my SCHOTT perfecto jacket for.the first five years after purchasing it, because every time I tried on my SCHOTT jacket, I would get an uncontrollable urge to get on my bike – ride away – and never come back.
Reply ↓
Bikers Den Post author
March 30, 2021 at 12:40 pm
We get the urge to ride whenever we don our SCHOTT leathers too, Michael.
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THE BRAND SCHOTT
Created in 1913, the legendary brand Schott invites you to discover the 1 New York, that of the New Yorkers. In this urban jungle, Schott makes you stronger and protects you because you know you can count on him.
 
SCHOTT HISTORY
HISTORY STORE 
1892
Irving Schott is born in New York.
1913
New York, brothers Schott open their first manufacturing plant: Their functional and solid clothes are an immediate success.
1928
Irving Schott, passionate biker, creates the first zipped leather jacket. He gives it the same name as his favorite Cuban cigar, the Perfecto!
1940
Schott stops all civilian production for the benefit of the US armed forces to participate in the war effort.
50's
The Perfecto becomes legendary thanks to Marlon Brando in "L'Equipe Sauvage" and James Dean in "The Fury of Life".
60's
The Perfecto makes its appearance in Europe.
70's
The Flight Jacket, once worn by airmen, becomes the fashionable jacket.
80's
The Schott down jacket in geese feather is essential every winter.
90's
The cabans of US Navy, the inevitable Bombers, , the "Outdoor" models triumph.
Years 2000
The mythical of Schott are restyled and fashioned. New generations of highly innovative products, such as vintage leather jackets, Sherpa sweaters or big sweatshirts have been launched and have quickly become international fashion references.
 
THE PERFECTO
HISTOIRE PERFECTOPERFECTO DETAIL
 
In 1928,
when Irving Schott made the first motorcycle jacket, no one could have predicted its long-term impact on the fashion industry as well as its incredible success among consumers of all stripes. Today you do not need to be part of a band or ride Harley-Davidson to wear black leather.
 
Irving's cuban cigar, the Perfecto...
Whether he was negotiating costs, talking to his first sellers or dealing with suppliers, Irving Schott always had his favorite Cuban cigar, the "Perfecto", in his mouth. Like Groucho Marx, Winston Churchill and George Burns, the cigar became his favorite accessory.
 
The Perfecto, motorbike jacket.
The first motorbike jacket was made for "Beck Distributors", Harley-Davidson distributors in Long Island, New York. It was sold retail at $ 5.50. Shortly after, Irving Schott launched a line of motorbike jackets under the brand name "Perfecto". Since the early fifties, only the "top" of motorbike jackets Schott carries the label Perfecto.
 
In 1954,
the Perfecto Schott appeared as a central accessory of the cult film "The Wild Ones", with Marlon Brando and Lee Marvin. The ever more frequent appearance of the jacket and its growing popularity actually led to the decline in sales! The Perfecto was banned in many schools because it was often associated with thugs!
 
LE BOMBER
BOMBER HISTORY
In the 50s, a new generation of aircraft involves reviewing the behavior of the pilots of the US Air Force, , equipped with jackets either leather or woolen skin.
A lightweight jacket, warm, functional, ergonomic perfectly adapting to the needs of pilots in their cockpit is born, the Bombers.
Its two original colors are explained by their function: in case of emergency landing, the color khaki blend in nature, while the orange lining is easily spotted by rescue teams at sea.
In several decades, Schott has produced hundreds of thousands of Bombers, Flight Jackets and Bombardiers in both the military and civilian sectors.
The most famous of them, the Bomber MA-1, has gone beyond its origins and its first use to become an iconic piece of fashion that appeals to both men and women.
Timeless, it continues to cross epochs and continues to be revisited. It remains a key piece in the Schott collections.
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SCHOTT NYC 257S CLASSIC B-3 SHEEPSKIN MEN'S BOMBER JACKET
from $ 1,789.00 CAD
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solo Schott NYC Black 257S Classic B-3 Sheepskin Men's Bomber Jacket | Town Moto | Motorcycle Lifestyle Shop | Toronto CanadaSchott NYC Black 257S Classic B-3 Sheepskin Men's Bomber Jacket | Town Moto | Motorcycle Lifestyle Shop | Toronto Canada
SCHOTT NYC EBONY 257S CLASSIC B-3 SHEEPSKIN MEN'S BOMBER JACKET
from $ 1,789.00 CAD
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Schott NYC 613S Perfecto Steerhide Jacket| Town Moto | Motorcycle Apparel Store | Toronto Canadalifestyle Schott NYC P613S Perfecto Steerhide Men's Motorcycle Jacket | Town Moto | Motorcycle Lifestyle Shop | Toronto Canada
SCHOTT NYC P613S PERFECTO MEN'S LEATHER JACKET
$ 1,679.00 CAD
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Schott NYC Black P613S Perfecto Steerhide Men's Motorcycle Jacket | Town Moto | Motorcycle Lifestyle Shop | Toronto Canada
SCHOTT NYC P613S PERFECTO MEN'S LEATHER JACKET
$ 1,647.00 CAD
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Schott PER70 Perfecto Vintaged Fitted Motorcycle Jacket | Town Moto | Motorcycle Lifestyle Shop | Toronto, CanadaSchott PER70 Perfecto Vintaged Fitted Motorcycle Jacket | Town Moto | Motorcycle Lifestyle Shop | Toronto, Canada
SCHOTT NYC PER70 PERFECTO MEN'S LEATHER JACKET
$ 1,586.00 CAD
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reverse Schott NYC Mustang P213 Perfecto Raven| Men's Lambskin Jacket | Town Moto | Motorcycle Lifestyle Shop | Toronto Canadareverse Schott NYC Mustang P213 Perfecto Raven| Men's Lambskin Jacket | Town Moto | Motorcycle Lifestyle Shop | Toronto Canada
SCHOTT NYC P213 PERFECTO RAVEN MEN'S LEATHER JACKET
$ 1,438.00 CAD
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Schott NYC Brown P213 Perfecto Raven| Men's Lambskin Jacket | Town Moto | Motorcycle Lifestyle Shop | Toronto CanadaLifestyle Schott NYC Brown P213 Perfecto Raven| Men's Lambskin Jacket | Town Moto | Motorcycle Lifestyle Shop | Toronto Canada
SCHOTT NYC P213 PERFECTO RAVEN MEN'S LEATHER JACKET
$ 1,438.00 CAD
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Schott NYC Black P213 Perfecto Raven| Men's Lambskin Jacket | Town Moto | Motorcycle Lifestyle Shop | Toronto Canada
SCHOTT NYC P213 PERFECTO RAVEN MEN'S LEATHER JACKET
$ 1,438.00 CAD
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Front View Schott PER28 Perfecto Distressed Leather Jacket | Town Moto | Motorcycle Lifestyle Shop | Toronto, CanadaSchott PER28 Perfecto Distressed Leather Jacket | Town Moto | Motorcycle Lifestyle Shop | Toronto, Canada
SCHOTT NYC PER28 PERFECTO MEN'S LEATHER JACKET
$ 1,397.00 CAD
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SCHOTT NYC BLACK P234 TANNED LAMBSKIN CAFE RACER JACKET
$ 1,384.00 CAD
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Schott NYC 619 Brown Perfecto Men's Motorcycle Jacket | Town Moto | Motorcycle Lifestyle Shop | Toronto Canadalifestyle Schott NYC 619 Brown Perfecto Men's Motorcycle Jacket | Town Moto | Motorcycle Lifestyle Shop | Toronto Canada
SCHOTT NYC 619 PERFECTO MEN'S LEATHER JACKET
$ 1,283.00 CAD
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SCHOTT NYC 613SH PERFECTO MEN'S LEATHER JACKET
$ 1,269.00 CAD
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Schott NYC Black 626VN Vintaged Cowhide Men's Motorcycle Jacket | Town Moto | Motorcyle Lifestyle Shop | Toronto Canada
SCHOTT NYC 626VN VINTAGED MEN'S LEATHER JACKET
$ 1,249.00 CAD
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Schott NYC 544 Cowhide Hip Length Car Coat - Nutmeg / Front ViewModel Schott NYC 544 Cowhide Hip Length Car Coat - Nutmeg / Front View
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$ 1,235.00 CAD
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Schott NYC Brown 519 Perfecto Waxy Natural Cowhide Men's Jacket | Town Moto | Motorcycle Lifestyle Shop | Toronto CanadaSchott NYC Brown 519 Perfecto Waxy Natural Cowhide Men's Jacket | Town Moto | Motorcycle Lifestyle Shop | Toronto Canada
SCHOTT NYC 519 50'S PERFECTO MEN'S LEATHER JACKET
$ 1,215.00 CAD
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Schott NYC 519 50's Perfecto Leather Jacket | Town Moto | Motorcycle Lifestyle Shop, Toronto, ON Canada
SCHOTT NYC 519 50'S PERFECTO MEN'S LEATHER JACKET
$ 1,215.00 CAD
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SCHOTT NYC P571 MISSION LEATHER JACKET
$ 1,195.00 CAD
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SCHOTT NYC 584 LIGHTWEIGHT COWHIDE FLIGHT JACKET
$ 1,175.00 CAD
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SCHOTT NYC 165 JAMES MEN'S RETRO STYLE NAKED COWHIDE JACKET
$ 1,154.00 CAD
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schott_nyc_626_light_weight_mens_leather_jacketschott_nyc_626_light_weight_mens_leather_jacket
SCHOTT NYC 626 LIGHTWEIGHT MEN'S LEATHER JACKET
$ 1,148.00 CAD
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SCHOTT NYC 626 LIGHTWEIGHT MEN'S LEATHER JACKET
$ 1,148.00 CAD
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SCHOTT NYC 530 CAFE RACER MEN'S LEATHER JACKET
from $ 1,148.00 CAD
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Schott NYC 530 Brown Cowhide Men's Cafe Racer Jacket | Town Moto | Motorcycle Lifestyle Shop | Toronto Canada
SCHOTT NYC 530 CAFE RACER MEN'S LEATHER JACKET
from $ 1,148.00 CAD
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Schott NYC 118 Perfecto Men's Leather Jacket, front view | Town Moto | Motorcycle Lifestyle Shop, Toronto, ON CanadaSchott NYC 118 Perfecto Men's Leather Jacket, front view on model, jacket open | Town Moto | Motorcycle Lifestyle Shop, Toronto, ON Canada
SCHOTT NYC 118 PERFECTO CLASSIC MEN'S LEATHER JACKET
from $ 1,114.00 CAD
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SCHOTT NYC 654VN VINTAGED CAFE RACER MEN'S LEATHER JACKET
$ 1,107.00 CAD
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Schott NYC Brown 141 Classic Racer Men's Jacket | Town Moto | Motorcycle Lifestyle Shop | Toronto CanadaSchott NYC Brown 141 Classic Racer Men's Jacket | Town Moto | Motorcycle Lifestyle Shop | Toronto Canada
SCHOTT NYC 141 CLASSIC RACER MEN'S LEATHER JACKET
from $ 1,107.00 CAD
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Schott NYC Black 654VN Vintaged Cafe Racer Men's Leather Jacket | Town Moto | Motorcycle Lifestyle Shop | Toronto Canada
SCHOTT NYC BLACK 654VN VINTAGED CAFE RACER MEN'S LEATHER JACKET
$ 1,107.00 CAD
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Shearling coats are made from processed lambskin, sheepskin, or pelt. This "shearing" process creates a uniform depth of the wool fibers for a uniform feel and look. Shearling coats and garments are made from pelts by tanning them with the wool of uniform depth still on them. The result is a soft, natural fleece material that is heavy due to thickness of outer skin and degree of fur on the inside, which is quite dense. The length of the sheep fur can be fairly long, but it is typically cropped short to about two inches or five centimeters. Most find these coats to be extremely comfortable and warm. Due to the high quality and uniqueness of shearling, coats and garment are considered luxurious. Sheepskin and Shearling are synonymous. The outer must be sheepskin to be Shearling on the inside.
Sheepskin is the hide of a sheep, sometimes also called lambskin. Unlike common leather, sheepskin is tanned with the fleece intact, as in a pelt.[1]
Contents
1 Uses
2 Quality
3 Mouton fur
4 See also
5 References
6 External links
Uses
Ugg boots are traditionally made from sheepskin.
Sheepskin is used to produce sheepskin leather products[2] and soft wool-lined clothing or coverings, including gloves, hats, slippers, footstools, automotive seat covers, baby and invalid rugs and pelts. Sheepskin numnahs, saddle pads, saddle seat covers, sheepskin horse boots, tack linings and girth tubes are also made and used in equestrianism.[3][4]
The fleece of sheepskin has excellent insulating properties and it is also resistant to flame and static electricity. Wool is considered by the medical profession to be hypoallergenic.[5] Sheepskin is a natural insulator, and draws perspiration away from the wearer and into the fibers. There, it traps between 30 and 36 percent of its own weight in moisture.
Testing at the Royal Melbourne Hospital and the CSIRO Textile and Fibre Technology Leather Research Centre confirmed the advantages of medical sheepskin in the prevention and treatment of pressure ulcers.[6]
Sheepskin coats, vests, and boots are common in the traditional dress of peoples throughout the Old World (wherever sheep are raised). They seem to be especially popular in the steppes of Eastern European and Northern Asia, and according to the French knight Robert de Clari, they were part of the national costume of the Cuman people who lived there circa 1200CE. In Ukraine a sheepskin coat is called a kozhukh and a vest a kozhushanka are an iconic part of the national costume, while in Russia the same coat was usually called tulup (ru:тулуп (одежда)). In Spain such a coat is called a zamarra, in Tibet a chuba, in Kazakh a ton, in Romania a cojoc,. In the English-speaking world, one may speak of a shearling coat. During the 1970s in Britain the suedehead subculture adopted this item as an identifying fashion, and it also had some popularity with hippies in North America. Sheepskin-lined Ugg boots became popular worldwide in the late 1990s.
The use of sheepskin seat covers in moving vehicles dates back centuries,[7] perhaps as long ago as the Bronze Age, when wagons and carriages were first used. The more sophisticated, tailor-made sheepskin car seat covers of the modern era have been popular in Europe for decades, and grew in great popularity in the United States in the mid 1970s.[8]
Quality
The quality of the skin used in each application depends on several factors, mostly whether the pelt, which is the back of the hide, will be visible or not. Where the pelt is visible, better quality hide with minimal seed will be used.
Seed contamination is where patches of scar tissue remain, resulting from a healed seed burrow wound during the animal's life. This scar tissue can fall out leaving small holes after the pelt is processed or it can remain in place leaving imperfections in the pelt which cannot be corrected. Seed contamination is graded as follows:[9]
"No Visible Seed" - Visually free of seed contamination. This does not however mean the skin is completely free of seed, only visually free.
"Light Seed" - Slight seed contamination visible in the wool but minimal mainly concentrated in the belly regions.
"Medium Seed" - Light seed contamination is present over most of the wool surface but is concentrated around the belly area and the legs.
"Heavy Seed" - Heavy contamination extending through the majority of the wool but especially prevalent around the belly area and the legs.
"Burry" - Wool contaminated with hard seed. Can vary from light to heavy concentration. This level of seed can cause problems if it is not removed before fleshing starts as the rollers can sometimes punch them through the skin.
In general, wool affected by skin diseases is not usable. Other problems include louse infestation, dead wool and regrowth.[citation needed]
Skins are classed, packed and sold in standardized wool lengths:
Bares (newly shorn)
1⁄8–1⁄4 inch (3–6 mm)
1⁄4–1⁄2 inch (6–13 mm)
1⁄2–1 inch (13–25 mm)
1–2 inches (25–51 mm)
2–4 inches (51–102 mm) (Full wools)
Mouton fur
Mouton fur (North America) or beaver lamb (UK) is sheepskin which has been processed to resemble beaver or seal fur[10] (mouton is French for "sheep"). Mouton fur is lambskin whose hair has been straightened, chemically treated, and thermally set to produce a moisture-repellent finish. Mouton is often dyed brown to resemble beaver, but it is also made in many other colors.
See also
Shearling
Calfskin
The pelt of newborn or fetal Karakul sheep is specially appreciated.
References
 Delbridge, Arthur, "The Macquarie Dictionary", 2nd ed., Macquarie Library, North Ryde, 1991
 "A Brief introduction to Sheepskin Leather". Retrieved 16 August 2020.
 Dressage & General Purpose Numnahs Archived 2009-01-24 at the Wayback Machine Retrieved on 2 February 2009
 Sheepskin Products Retrieved on 30 July 2018
 Wool Facts Retrieved on 12 January 2009
 Pressure Ulcer TreatmentArchived 2012-07-23 at the Wayback Machine
 Sheepskin Seat Covers History Retrieved on 15 September 2015
 "Best Sheepskin Seat Covers for All Weather Comfort". Knolhub. Retrieved 6 February 2016.Archived 2017-02-02 at the Wayback Machine
 Sheepskin Seed Contamination Gradings Retrieved on 12 January 2009
 MOUTON Fur: the smart choice Retrieved on 12 January 2009
 A flight jacket is a casual jacket that was originally created for pilots and eventually became part of popular culture and apparel. It has evolved into various styles and silhouettes, including the "letterman" jacket and the fashionable "bomber" jacket that is known today.
Contents
1 The flight jacket
1.1 Early history
1.2 Flight jackets in the United States
1.3 Civilian uses
2 The letterman jacket
2.1 Background and history
2.2 Materials and techniques
2.3 Colors
2.4 Influences
3 The bomber jacket
3.1 Background and history
3.2 Silhouette
3.3 Materials
3.4 Colors
4 See also
5 References
The flight jacket
Early history
World War I
Richard Byrd in flight jacket, 1920s
In World War I, most airplanes did not have an enclosed cockpit, so pilots had to wear something that would keep them sufficiently warm. The U.S. Army officially established the Aviation Clothing Board in September 1917 and began distributing heavy-duty leather flight jackets; with high wraparound collars, zipper closures with wind flaps, snug cuffs and waists, and some fringed and lined with fur.
World War II
Flight Jacket of a pilot of a B-17 bomber in WWII
Leslie Irvin first designed and manufactured the classic sheepskin flying jacket. In 1926 he set up a manufacturing company in the United Kingdom, and became the main supplier of flying jackets to the Royal Air Force during most of World War II. However, the demand during the early years of the war was so great that the Irvin company engaged subcontractors, which explains the slight variations of design and colour that can be seen in early production Irvin flying jackets.
As aerospace technology improved, the altitudes at which aircraft operated increased. Some heavy bombing raids in Europe during World War II took place from altitudes of at least 25,000 ft (7,600 m), where ambient temperatures could reach as cold as −50 °C (−58 °F). The cabins of these aircraft were uninsulated, so a warm, thick flight jacket was an essential piece of equipment for every member of the crew.
Flight jackets in the United States
The two most historical American flight jackets are the A-2 jacket and the G-1. Although General “Hap” Arnold cancelled the original A-2 after twelve years because he wanted "something better", the A-2 remains the most recognizable and sought-after American flight jacket. The G-1, designed by the U.S. Navy to parallel the Air Corps’ A-2, lasted until 1978, when U.S. Congress cancelled it due to its tremendous popular appeal, which was overwhelming the Navy's supply system. Their popularity evolved into symbols of honor, adventure, and style. Hollywood films like Top Gun boosted sales of the G-1 tremendously, making bomber jackets collector and fashion items.
In addition to the A-2 and G-1 jackets, shearling jackets, originally lined with fur, are recognized for being the warmest flight jackets. Even when the fur was replaced with wool, this coat was warm enough to keep Lt. John A. Macready warm when he set a world record in April 1921, reaching an altitude of 40,000 feet in his open-cockpit airplane. Styles range from the B-3 "bomber jacket", to the M-445, the U.S. Navy's shearling jacket. Also popular in the military were, and still are, synthetic jackets. These jackets first gained esteem after General Hap Arnold rejected the A-2 jacket in 1942. Styles range from the cotton twill B-series to the standardized jacket of the U.S. Navy, the CWU-series. Both synthetic and shearling jackets are worn and collected by army buffs today, but neither has the historical status of the A-2 jacket or the G-1.
Today, flight jackets are usually associated with the MA-1, a now-obsolete U.S. military jacket, which is mostly found in sage green. It is made with flight silk nylon and usually has a blaze orange lining, with the specification tag in the pocket, though earlier models had a sage-green lining and the specification tag on the neck area. It has two slanted flap pockets on the front, two inner pockets, and a zipped pocket with pen holders on the left sleeve. The lighter weight version of the MA-1 is known as the L-2B flight jacket, which in turn, replaced both the original L2 and L2A jackets, which all three differentiate from the MA-1 as they have snap-down epaulets and no inside pockets. The military flight jackets currently used today are the CWU-45P (for colder weather) and the CWU-36P (for warmer weather); both are made from Nomex.
Civilian uses
Baseball bomber jacket 1980s-style summer
In the 1970s and 1990s, flight jackets became popular with scooterboys and skinheads. In the 1980s, a baseball style bomber jacket became popular. In 1993, a uniform flight jacket was worn as the "national costume" of the United States for the APEC meeting held in Seattle, Washington.[citation needed] In the early 2000s, the bomber jacket was popular casual wear in hip-hop fashion. The jacket has also caught on with several police departments across the United States for its sturdy design and heavy insulation. Flight jacket has had a resurgence in popularity during the 2010s in street fashion, and is a notable staple of celebrities such as Kanye West.
The letterman jacket
Background and history
The varsity letters were first customized by Harvard University in 1865 and originally designed to reward baseball players on their teams as a token for exceptional performance. The term "letterman" comes from the letter, which is the initial or signature icon, that is placed on the front or back of these sweaters and jackets. These "letterman" (also known as "varsity") sweaters or jackets were worn to represent the social identities of athletes and reflect a strong sense of team spirit, pride of belonging to a particular school, and values of collectivism.[1] The letters on the jackets represented the school and were therefore placed with the intention of acknowledging scholastic achievement of the wearer.
As the trend of letterman jackets spread among colleges and teenagers after WWII, the concept was expanded to award the performance of students in aspects other than sports. With the increasing number of university students due to the popularization of high school education in the US, these jackets are no longer specialized for athletic players but represent a student's identity through their school/college's initials. Similar to the flight jacket, letterman jackets have a loose-fitted silhouette that is genderless in style, although they may include a banded collar for men or a top-buttoned hood that unbuttons into an expanded collar for women.
Materials and techniques
The body of the jacket is usually made of boiled wool which provides warmth and the sleeves are generally made of leather with banded wrists and waistbands. The letter of the belonging school is mostly constructed in chenille and felt materials and made in the school's signature color. The "moss stitch" creates the chenille look of the letter with a chain stitch to provide an outline to the letter.[1] Nowadays, Bomber Jackets are made from a variety of materials. These include leather, wool, silk, satin and suede.
Colors
Since the letterman jackets represent the student's identity according to which school they come from, they are usually designed according to the school's signature color. Mostly, the school's primary signature color is applied on the body of the jacket while the sleeves are the school's secondary signature color. For example, the Harvard letterman jackets are usually crimson, blue or green on the body color and white or gold on the sleeves.
Influences
Besides serving as an identity of university/college students, the letterman jacket was modified and became a popular casual wear in the hip-hop fashion segment during the early 2000s and started to evolve into the bomber jacket. Led by Kanye West, bomber jackets became an iconic hip-hop fashion item instead of being associated with the military or colleges. Teenagers often enjoy customizing their own bomber jackets with their favorite colors and own initials to represent themselves. With the global trend of hip hop in recent years, bomber jackets have become an essential fashion item that includes varied design elements.
The bomber jacket
Background and history
The bomber jacket originates from military clothing which trickled down into subcultures such as punk and has recently made its way into high fashion. The military bomber jacket was made to be versatile for functionality as it was a lightweight jacket that kept aircrews warm. The B-15 jacket consisted of a fur collar made of cotton which was later changed to nylon after 1945 since it was considered more suitable because it is water resistant and kept perspiration out (Cruz, 2016). Bomber jackets appeared in Europe during the late 1950s and in 1963, the jackets were popularized by European Air Forces and eventually the commercial consumer.
Japan was also greatly influenced by the American fashion sense after the Second World War. Notably in 1951, Kensuke Ishizu established his brand VAN that gave Japanese youth culture stylish clothing not found locally such as oxford shirts and slim trousers. The bomber jacket remained popular during the later twentieth century as a part of the grunge and street-wear subculture, and maintains popularity today due in part to the “Kanye effect."
Silhouette
The silhouette of the bomber jacket has not altered a lot compared to the original, although it has an athletic and masculine silhouette with a fitted waist and more generous fit, like the bulky sleeves and extra pockets so as to be functional. The bomber jacket trend inspired a vast majority of fashion designers to reinterpret and revisit the silhouette of menswear today. For instance, the S/S 2000 collections from Raf Simons which changed the original design into a more symmetrical form, the elongated bombers from Rick Owens, floral printed versions from Balenciaga, Dries Van Noten and many more.
The bomber jacket is a neutral fashion item with no limitations when it comes to genders, ages or styles. Shapes of the bomber jackets are modified into dress-like jackets or even one-piece dresses.
Materials
Due to high altitudes and breakneck speeds in less advanced airplanes compared to modern day, Royal Flying Corps in Belgium and France started to wear heavy leather flying jackets in the 1910s as leather was considered the heaviest and strongest material for jackets.[2] Since then, original bomber jackets were made in heavy-duty leather in order to provide warmth for military pilots.
The A2 which was released by the US Army Air Corps was made with high wraparound collars, cinched cuffs and waists, and zipper closures protected by wind flaps and fur linings and had a high durability.[3] Since then there have been various versions of the bomber jacket, from having fur collars, cotton outers and leather straps to knit collars and orange lining in the bomber jacket to aid in visibility in case an incident were to occur.
Materials of the bomber jacket are continuously changed each season to bring unconventional styles that cater to customer's needs. Not only do designers use leather and wool, but fabrics such as silk, neoprene, satin and gauze are used. Decorative elements like ruffles, embroidered patchwork, lace-ups are also added on the bomber jackets, making them an essential fashion item that comes in a variety of colors, fabrications, and styles.
Colors
Bomber jackets originally appeared in a midnight blue hue, which was later switched to a sage green after the Korean and Vietnamese wars since it was easier for soldiers to camouflage themselves amongst the forests or countryside during the 1960s. Bomber jackets became popular in the non-military audience in the late 1960s to 1980s, especially when the English punks and skinheads started taking over the trend and changed the color into burgundy in order to distinguish themselves and their bomber jackets from the original military flight jackets. Brown is also a classic color for leather flight jackets.[2]
Due to the popularity of the jacket, both high street and high end brands have designed the bomber jacket in a variety of hues. Other than the standard navy blue, army green and black, the bomber can be found in pastel tones such as baby pink, blue, mint, or even gold and silver.[4]
See also
A-2 jacket
Blouson
Eisenhower jacket
G-suit
Leather jacket
MA-1 bomber jacket
MA-2 bomber jacket
Sukajan
A leather jacket is a jacket-length coat that is usually worn on top of other apparel or item of clothing, and made from the tanned hide of various animals. The leather material is typically dyed black, or various shades of brown, but a wide range of colors is possible. Leather jackets can be designed for many purposes, and specific styles have been associated with subcultures such as greasers, motorcyclists and bikers, mobsters, military aviators (especially during and directly after World War II) and music subcultures (punks, goths, metalheads, rivetheads), who have worn the garment for protective or fashionable reasons, and occasionally to create a potentially intimidating appearance.
Most modern leather jackets are produced in Pakistan, India, Canada, Mexico and the United States, using hides left over from the meat industry. Fabrics simulating leather such as polyurethane or PVC are used as alternatives to authentic animal hide leather depending on the needs of the wearer such as those pursuing vegan lifestyles or for economic reasons as synthetic fibers tend to be less costly than authentic leather.
Contents
1 History
2 Material
3 Popularity
4 Popular culture
5 Safety gear
6 References
History
Soviet tank commander Semyon Krivoshein wearing a black leather coat based on the reefer jacket
In the early 1900s aviators and members of the military wore brown leather flight jackets. One of the first modern leather jackets the type A1 was created by Chapal in 1925.[1] During the Second World War the garments became known as "bomber jackets" and were heavily insulated and prized for their warmth. The jacket was often part of an overall uniform-ensemble meant to protect bomber pilots from exposure to the extreme climate conditions found at high altitude, and often incorporated sheepskin, using the intact fleece on the inside for warmth.
Russian Bolsheviks commonly wore leather jackets, which became a quasi-uniform for commissars during the Russian Civil War, and later for the members of the Cheka. Yakov Sverdlov allegedly initiated this practice.[2]
Material
Antelope, buckskin, goatskin, sheepskin, horsehide and cowhide are the hides most commonly used to make leather jackets. As soon as the skin is removed from the animal at the meat processing plant, it is refrigerated, salted, or packed in barrels of brine. It is then sent to the tannery where the skins undergo a series of processes designed to preserve and soften the hides. Sewing materials such as thread, lining, seam tape, buttons, snaps and zippers are generally bought from outside vendors and stored in the garment factory.
Popularity
Queen Rania of Jordan in a leather jacket at the 2010 World Economic Forum
In the latter half of the 20th century, the leather jacket—in many forms—achieved iconic status and general acceptance through an inextricable[citation needed] link to Hollywood. Such jackets were popularized by numerous stars in the 1940s and 1950s, including actor Jimmy Stewart (who had actually commanded a U.S. bomber squadron during World War II) in the film Night Passage (1957).[3] The brown leather jacket has become a de rigueur part of wardrobe for the Hollywood adventurer, from Gary Cooper in For Whom the Bell Tolls to Harrison Ford in the Indiana Jones film series.
A leather jacket could be used to shape a character, providing an important ingredient used to define the very essence of 'cool'. Prime examples include the Perfecto motorcycle jacket worn by Marlon Brando's Johnny Strabler in The Wild One (1953), Honor Blackman as Cathy Gale on The Avengers, and Michael Pare in Eddie and the Cruisers duo (1983 and 1989). All these served to popularize leather jackets among American youth from the "greaser subculture" of the 1950s and early 1960s. Later depictions of this subculture feature via The Fonz from the television series Happy Days, produced in the 1970s and 1980s, but set in the 1950s and 1960s (Fonzie's leather jacket is now housed in the Smithsonian Institution), and in the film duos Eddie and the Cruisers and Grease. Flight jackets, also (occasionally with fleece collars, as seen in the film Top Gun (1986), have remained fashionable for decades.
In the 1990s, a variety of leather jacket patterned after an eight ball, referred to as an eight-ball jacket, was briefly trendy. It occasionally resurfaces as a retro fashion item.[4]
Popular culture
American actor Gary Cooper wore a leather jacket in his role as an International Brigades guerrilla fighter in the Spanish Civil War in For Whom the Bell Tolls
There are many more examples of iconic leather jackets worn in popular culture, such as the Schott Perfecto worn by the T-800 character of The Terminator films and the longer ¾ length trench coat style worn by action heroes such as Steven Seagal, by Wesley Snipes as Blade in the Blade films, by Keanu Reeves and Laurence Fishburne as Neo and Morpheus in The Matrix films, or by Richard Gibson as Herr Otto Flick on the television sitcom 'Allo 'Allo!.
Another example is the leather jackets worn by Brad Pitt in Fight Club, where the antagonist Tyler Durden constantly appears with different variations of his red leather jacket. Other famous leather jacket icons include those worn by members of the Black Panthers in the 1960s and 1970s, the Ramones which made it a trend in the punk subculture, members of heavy metal subcultures, etc.
In most popular culture examples, the jackets are worn by people cultivating an intimidating and potentially violent or rebellious image. The tan leather jacket in particular has become very popular with the Brit Pop and Indie music image and culture and is famously worn by people such as Kelly Jones of the Stereophonics. The Punk culture also "rocks" the leather jacket with accessories such as chains, studs, cuts, and sketch designs. Many "Metal Heads" go with the Judas Priest look (black leather jacket, black leather pants, chains, and many metal studs).
Safety gear
There is a substantial difference between leather jackets made for fashion purposes, and those worn for protection, such as motorcycle personal protective equipment. Leather jackets designed for protective use are safety equipment and are heavier, thicker, and sometimes even equipped with armor, thus they are a practical item of clothing regardless of the symbolism invested in them by popular culture. A leather jacket primarily designed for fashion purposes would not be much protection in a motorcycle accident because of the jacket's flimsy construction. Motorcycle jackets often have more substantial zips, weatherproof pockets and closures, higher collars, and are styled to be longer at the back than the front to protect the kidneys of the riders from the cold while the rider is bent forward over the motorcycle.
An A-2 U.S. regulation bomber jacket
 
Punks wearing leather jackets in Evansville, Indiana ca. 1984
 
A young goth woman wearing a leather jacket
 
Motorcycle pillion passenger wearing a two-piece leather suit styled with a short jacket
 
A young woman in a modern designer leather jacket
 
Elize Ryd wearing a leather jacket while performing in 2013
 
Marlon Brando - The Wild One (Madame Tussaud)
The Type A-2 leather flight jacket is an American military flight jacket originally invented and developed for and closely associated with World War II U.S. Army Air Forces pilots, navigators and bombardiers, who often decorated their jackets with squadron patches and elaborate artwork painted on the back like. Sometimes casually referred to as a bomber jacket, its original designation was "Jacket, Pilot's (summer)", and its wartime usage was limited neither to pilots nor to bomber crews.
Contents
1 History
2 Design and construction
3 Manufacturers
4 Wartime use
5 Theater-made jackets
6 Survivors
7 Modern Air Force A-2
8 Reproductions
9 In the media
10 See also
11 References
History
The Type A-2 flying jacket was adopted as standard issue by the U.S. Army Air Corps as the successor to the Type A-1 flying jacket on May 9, 1931, per specification number 94-3040.
B-17 Flying Fortress Crew from 457th BG wearing their leather A-2 jackets
The U.S. Army Air Forces Class 13 Catalog listed the garment as "Jacket, Flying, Type A-2". It describes the jacket's construction as "seal brown horsehide leather, knitted wristlets and waistband (skirt)." Broadly similar in construction to the A-1, it replaced the A-1's buttoned front and pocket flaps with a zipper and hidden snap fasteners (although the first three A-2 contracts retained the pocket buttons). The A-1's stand-up knitted collar, which buttoned closed, was supplanted in the A-2 by a shirt-style leather collar, with hidden snaps at the points and a hook-and-eye latch at the throat. Stitched-down shoulder straps were also added to the design. Sizes were listed as ranging in even numbers from 32 through 54.
The A-2 was replaced by the AN6552 (AN-J-3) per a specification 94-3040 reference document dated May 24, 1943, and declared "Limited Standard", meaning replacements were available. The April 1944 USAAF catalog for ordering supplies does not list the AN-J-3 as an option, but both the A-1 and A-2 are listed (the A-1 for $4.00 and the A-2 for $8.12). The lack of AN-J-3 replacements may explain why three U.S. A-2 contracts were granted in Dec. 1943, or after the A-2 jacket was officially replaced. (The lack of AN-J-3 replacements may also explain why flying jackets were purchased in Australia by the Department of the U.S. Army in June 1943. These "V505" jackets have been shown to be used by some members of the U.S. Fifth Air Force.)[1]
Design and construction
Although the actual design would vary slightly depending on the manufacturer, and even among contracts within a single manufacturer, all A-2 jackets had several distinguishing characteristics: a snap-flap patch pocket on either side that does not have hand warmer compartments (hands in pockets were considered unfit for a military bearing), a shirt-style snap-down collar, shoulder straps (or Epaulets), knit cuffs and waistband, a back constructed from a single piece of leather to limit stress on the garment, and a cotton inner lining with a leather hang strap (not a loop) and military spec tag attached just below the back collar.
Prior to World War II the collar was sewn to a neckband or "stand" like those found in dress shirts, a time-intensive operation. Wartime contracts generally had "simple attached" collars, sewn directly to the back panel and rolled over, although Rough Wear and Perry continued using the collar stand throughout. Similarly, most pre-war (and some wartime) A-2s had inset sleeves, attached at a better attitude for body movement. This too was time-intensive and gave way to "flat attached" sleeves whose bottom seams met up with the body side seams.
A-2s were initially constructed of horsehide,[2] which was either vegetable- or chrome-tanned. Some later A-2s were made from goatskin (as was the Navy G-1 jacket) and others from cowhide (which can be very difficult to tell from horse if tanned identically). All Spiewak and Doniger jackets are of goat, as are many Cable, Dubow, Bronco, Perry, and Rough Wear examples.
Wartime-issued A-2 jackets appear in a wide range of color tones and hues, although all are based on two distinct colors: Seal (dark brown to almost black) and russet (pale red-brown to medium brown). Most lighter russet jackets were darker seal re-dyed during the war to cover scuffing and discoloration although some contracts, like the Aero Leather 21996, were dyed seal right from the start. Original knit cuffing typically matched the leather or came close, but exceptions exist, such as Aero Leather's eye-catching rust-red cuffing on seal brown hide.
The A-2 was one of the early articles of clothing designed expressly to use a zipper. Zippers were made of steel or brass, and some were nickel plated. Known zipper suppliers were Talon, Crown, Conmar, and Kwik, with Talon providing the majority of zippers used in wartime A-2 construction. Until about 1940, Talon zippers with riveted or grommeted metal bottoms were used.
Unlike modern, loose-fitting jackets, the original A-2 looks to us today a rather trim-fitting jacket. Period photos and films reveal a jacket which could be worn fitted and sharp looking or a bit baggy and loose in the body. It was designed to fit the thinner male of the time- original A-2 jackets worn by modern men may seem a bit snug in the shoulders. This is particularly true of pre-war contract garments such as the 1933 Werber and the 1938 and 1940 Aero Leathers. Period photos and films show that the A-2 was typically worn over a shirt, or a shirt and flight suit; airmen were more likely to switch to a sheep-lined jacket or, later, an electrified flight suit for wintertime or high-altitude operations.
Manufacturers
Paperwork showing the first three (3) A-2 flying jacket contracts, all using button pocket closure and made of horsehide leather with cotton lining.
There were many manufacturers of A-2 jackets during the 1930s and 1940s whose product showed a wide range of quality, workmanship, and fit characteristics. All contracts used a cotton lining, though various replacements were made over the years. The first three (3) contracts had button pocket flaps, while all the rest were snapped pockets beginning with Werber order number 33-1729. Manufacturers included civilian clothing producers such as David D. Doniger & Co., makers of the popular MacGregor brand outerwear, as well as leather-goods companies like J.A. Dubow Mfg., whose chief peacetime product was baseball mitts. Rough Wear manufactured the A-2 under several different contracts, each varying slightly in color and style.[3]
"Standard" (A-2, drawing 30-1415 has officially replaced the A-1 as standard issue) [4]
Contract Number Order Number Contract Date Quantity Original Maker
31-1897 25 P. Goldsmith Sons Co.
32-485 1,666 Security Sportswear Co. (Aviation Togs)
32-6225 600 Werber Leather Coat Co., Inc.
33-1729 unknown Werber Leather Coat Co., Inc.
W535 AC-6213 34-518P 5-Sep-33 unknown Werber Leather Coat Co., Inc.
W535 AC-8004 36-1112P 13-Sep-35 550 Werber Leather Coat Co., Inc.
W535 AC-9193 37-1119P 11-Sep-36 unknown Werber Leather Coat Co., Inc.
37-3061P unknown Aero Clothing and Tanning Co.
W535 AC-9709 37-3891P 3-Mar-37 375 H.L.B. Corp.
W535 AC-10490 38-1711P 26-Oct-37 1,500 Aero Leather Clothing Co., Inc.
W535 AC-12091 39-2951P 9-Jan-39 1,250 Werber Sportswear Co.
W535 AC-13911 40-3785P 18-Dec-39 3,500 Aero Leather Clothing Co., Inc.
W535 AC-16159 2-Nov-40 9,700 Rough Wear Clothing Co.
W535 AC-16160 1-Nov-40 4,500 Aero Leather Clothing Co., Inc.
W535 AC-18091 6-Mar-41 17,628 Rough Wear Clothing Co.
W535 AC-20958 42-1401P 8-Aug-41 30,000 Rough Wear Clothing Co.
W535 AC-20959 42-1402P 8-Aug-41 7,000 Werber Sportswear Co.
W535 AC-20960 42-1403P 8-Aug-41 13,000 J.A. Dubow Mfg. Co.
W535 AC-21035 42-1671P 15-Aug-41 unknown Rough Wear Clothing Co.
W535 AC-21996 14-Oct-41 25,000 Aero Leather Clothing Co.
W535 AC-23377 31-Dec-41 20,000 Perry Sportswear Inc.
W535 AC-23378 26-Dec-41 15,000 Monarch Mfg. Co.
W535 AC-23379 26-Dec-41 10,000 J.A. Dubow Mfg. Co.
W535 AC-23380 26-Dec-41 12,000 Rough Wear Clothing Co.
W535 AC-23381 5-Jan-42 5,000 Cooper Sportswear Mfg. Co.
W535 AC-23382 29-Dec-41 10,000 Cable Raincoat Co.
W535 AC-23383 22-Dec-41 8,000 Fried, Ostermann Co. (unsigned label)
W535 AC-24759 42-10008P 19-Jan-42 10,000 Cable Raincoat Co.
W535 AC-27435 42-15142P 28-Mar-42 50,000 Aero Leather Clothing Co.
W535 AC-27618 42-16175P 23-May-42 50,000 Perry Sportswear Inc.
W535 AC-27752 27-Apr-42 50,000 Rough Wear Clothing Co.
W535 AC-27753 29-Apr-42 50,000 Cable Raincoat Co. (unsigned label)
W535 AC-27798 25-Apr-42 50,000 J.A. Dubow Mfg. Co.
W535 AC-28557 42-18245P 18-May-42 30,000 Star Sportswear Mfg. Co.
W535 AC-28558 42-18246P 18-May-42 10,000 S.H. Knopf Mfg. Co. (unsigned label)
W535 AC-28560 42-18248P 18-May-42 50,000 Poughkeepsie Leather Coat Co.
W535 AC-28819 42-18775P 25-May-42 50,000 Aero Leather Clothing Co.
W535 AC-28820 42-18776P 18-May-42 25,000 I. Spiewak & Sons Co., Inc.
W535 AC-28821 42-18777P 18-May-42 25,000 United Sheeplined Clothing Co.
W535 AC-29191 42-19172P 18-May-42 59,000 Bronco Mfg. Corp.
W535 AC-29971 42-21539P 9-Jun-42 5,000 David D. Doniger & Co. (signed and unsigned labels)
War - Foreign [5]
Contract Accept Country Date Quantity Original Maker
10,776 Req. 18669 Australia Jun-43 3,132 Simpsons Gloves Pty. Ltd., Vic. ("V505" coded label)
"Limited Standard" (AN-J-3, drawing AN-6552 has officially replaced the A-2)
Contract Number Contract Date Quantity Original Maker
W33-038 A.C. 1755 (11631) Dec-43 35,000 J.A. Dubow Mfg. Co.
W33-038 A.C. 1756 Dec-43 25,000 Perry Sportswear Inc. (unsigned label)
W33-038 A.C. 1761 Dec-43 unknown Bronco Mfg. Corp.
Wartime use
The A-2 jacket was awarded to an Army Air Forces officer upon completion of basic flight training, and always before graduating to advanced training. No standard system of distribution was used, though generally airmen lined up in front of boxes containing jackets of various sizes and given the appropriate size jacket by the base quartermaster. A-2s were exclusive to commissioned officers until early in World War II, when also issued to enlisted aircrews.
The A-2 was a treasured item to the airman and was worn with as much pride as his wings. As airmen progressed through various duty stations they often added and removed squadron patches, rank marks, and occasionally elaborate artwork depicting the type of aircraft they flew or a copy of the artwork painted on their airplane. Bomber crews often added small bombs to the right front of their jackets indicating the number of missions they had flown. As a result, many jackets ended up with numerous stitch marks as patches of various sizes were removed and replaced when the owner changed units. Unlike Navy aviators, who often wore the patches of every squadron they had ever flown with, AAF personnel could only display the patch of their current assignment. The emblem of the Army Air Forces was often sewn, painted, or applied by decal on the left shoulder, while the shield of the specific Air Force (5th, 8th, etc.) was often displayed on the right.
Most of this B-17F's crew is wearing leather A-2 jackets
Despite the A-2s becoming a symbol of the American pilot, in 1943 General H. H. "Hap" Arnold canceled any further leather jacket contracts in favor of newer cloth-shell jackets like the B-10 and B-15. Needless to say, Arnold's popularity with his airmen was not improved by his decision. Even after the transition to cloth, existing units could still order replacement A-2s, keeping production going well into 1944. And it was impossible to prevent airmen from continuing to obtain and wear the style – as demonstrated by the large number of photos clearly showing Korean War pilots of F-82s and F-86s still wearing the original A-2 issued to them a decade earlier, or newer jackets made to fit their current sizes.
Fighter pilots, who often had heated cockpits, could wear the A-2 into combat more easily. Some jackets had a map of the mission area sewn into the lining, which could be used (in theory) for navigation if shot down. Some jackets (famously, those from the China Burma India Theater, and of the Flying Tigers) had a "Blood chit" sewn on the lining or outer back, printed on cloth, which promised certain rewards to civilians who aided a downed airman. In certain ETO units and possibly elsewhere a prerogative of the fighter ace was a red satin lining which was added on confirmation of his fifth aerial kill.
P-51 Mustang pilot wearing a leather A-2 jacket
Early wartime pictures show entire bomber crews outfitted with A-2s, although at altitude in a bomber they probably weren't too useful. The pilot and copilot had primitive cabin heat on some aircraft and would wear the A-2, while the rest of the bomber crew usually wore heavier fleece-lined Type B-3 or ANJ-4 (and later B-9 and B-11 parkas) which were warmer and better suited to long hours in the severe cold. However, period photos do show A-2s worn by crew underneath heavy outer garments, and candid on-base photos often show crewmen of all ranks in A-2s. A warm and comfortable mouton collar was an addition authorized in mountainous C-B-I commands.
Theater-made jackets
Throughout the War, as the A-2s popularity grew, so too did the demand for it. Only aircrewmen could obtain A-2 jackets through regular channels, although a few celebrated nonflying officers like Gens. MacArthur and Patton and Maj. Glenn Miller also procured and wore them. A small "cottage industry" soon appeared, especially in England, to make A-2-style jackets for GIs (including many airborne infantry troops) who otherwise could not get one. This was especially true after the Army stopped purchasing new leather jackets in mid-1943, and disappointed airmen were sent to war in the less desirable cloth jackets, or were unable to replace A-2s they had lost or damaged. As a result, some war-era jackets used by World War II airmen are clearly not true to original AAF specifications, though this makes them no less historic.
Survivors
Original wartime issued A-2 jackets are rare but not unavailable. The value of such originals ranges widely depending on condition, known history, patches and artwork, and even size. Most originals used a sizing system considerably smaller than today's comparable sizes, with only 2-4 inches (100 mm) of "slack" over the tagged chest size. In other words, an original size 42 might be closer to a modern 40 or even a 38, depending on the manufacturer. Original World War II era jackets sell at auction for between $800 and $8,000, with wearable examples generally running $1,000 and up.
The National Museum of the United States Air Force has a collection of original A-2 jackets, most donated by the families of Air Force pilots. No fewer than fifty are on display at any time throughout the Museum, including many historic jackets such as Brig. Gen. James Stewart's A-2 (a Rough Wear contract 42-1401), an A-2 from the AVG "Flying Tigers," and another worn by one of the few U.S. pilots to get airborne during the attack on Pearl Harbor.
Modern Air Force A-2
With the exception of a very brief period from 1979 to early 1981 the U.S. Navy never stopped issuing its G-1 leather flying jackets to Navy, Marine, and Coast Guard flight crews. This meant that an entire generation of Air Force pilots and flight crews had missed out on an opportunity not lost to their Naval comrades. Years of effort by U.S. Air Force personnel to get the A-2 jacket reissued finally succeeded when the Air Force began issuing them again in 1988, a decision that may have been influenced by the popularity of the film "Top Gun", and the military apparel it popularized. The first Air Force A-2 contract was awarded to Avirex, but all subsequent contracts from 1988 to 1998 were awarded to Neil Cooper USA, now U.S. Wings of Ohio. The modern Air Force A-2 is authorized for wear by Air Force aircrews and missileers who have completed their mission qualifications.[6]
The latest design differs from the original design in several ways: it is looser-fitting, made only from goatskin, and produced in only a medium seal brown color (though many older, fitted jackets are still in use). Unlike the World War II era pilots, modern Air Force pilots are not permitted to paint their A-2 jackets or disfigure them in any way. The official explanation for this is that the paint is flammable and could pose a fire hazard. The goatskin used in today's A-2 is treated with a special fire retardant chemical. The crewmember's name tag is mounted on the left breast, with the Major Command, HQ USAF, or Combatant Command shield are on the right, attached with Velcro. No patches are permitted to be sewn directly onto the jacket as they were during World War II.
In 1996 Neil Cooper USA was awarded a contract from the Defense Supply Center, Philadelphia (DSCP), to redesign the A-2 jacket to be more functional and to improve the fit. Side entry pockets were added to the patch pockets and inside wallet pockets were added. The fit was enlarged via extra pieces under the arms and on the sides. The neck clasp was also eliminated. These modifications were previously carried out by the member themselves at popular places around the world like Pop's Leather in Turkey, or in the numerous shops in Korea. Now that these modifications are part of the official issue, only "Blood Chits" and other internal linings are added by the aircrew themselves.
In 1999 Avirex was again awarded a contract to make A-2 jackets. In 2000 they began producing the "21st Century" A-2 using the updated pattern Neil Cooper USA had designed. In 2006, HQ USAF required all A-2 jackets to be "Berry Amendment" compliant. This means that all materials used in the jacket must be of American origin. Goat skins used are required to have been born and bred in the U.S., and the leather tanned in the U.S. (All jackets made by Cooper Sportswear, and the jackets made by Avirex in 1999, were made of goatskin imported from Pakistan).
Reproductions
Just as a cottage industry appeared during the war to meet the need for A-2 jackets, so too does such an industry still exist today. Because the A-2 never went out of style, production of it never really ceased. Over the years it has varied in style and accuracy relative to the original war-era design, but it has remained visible in popular movies and TV shows of the 1950s and 1960s.
In the mid-1970s several small companies catering to purists began undertaking the job of designing and constructing somewhat authentic reproductions. Duplicating wartime patterns, often obtained through "reverse engineering" from dissected originals, but using incorrect hides that are veg tanned and aniline dyed, originals were chrome tanned and pigment dyed, all-cotton thread, and even actual the World War II-era-old stock Talon zippers, they have effectively recreated a wartime-era jacket that can be worn daily without fear of damaging a valuable original. Some manufacturers have even gone so far as to reproduce the particular details of specific World War II A-2 production contracts. The rarest and most desirable A-2, the Goldsmith 31-1897, has even been recreated based upon photographic evidence as a survivor has not been found.
Popularly priced (approximately US $500 and below) A-2 jackets today only approximate the authentlaryic style, with oversized shoulders and sleeves intended for layering loose clothing underneath, non-spec hand and pen pockets, and softer materials like lambskin. A-2s made today by U.S. Air Force contract manufacturers tend to fit younger, fitter men with v-shaped torsos, and some former pilots have found that their old A-2s no longer fit them.
In the media
A-2 jackets can be seen in many movies, as they came to represent the American fighting man just as much as the P-51 Mustang and M1911 pistol. Seeing legendary actors such as Gregory Peck and John Wayne on the big screen wearing A-2s only reinforced their popularity. By the 1950s the A-2 was moving into the role of the motorcycle jacket, which would soon evolve into its own distinct style. The jacket worn by Henry Winkler in the role of "Fonzie" in the TV show Happy Days was a variation of the A-2 jacket. In the 1960s and 1970s the A-2 reappeared in a new crop of big budget World War II films such as The Great Escape and Patton, as well as being the wardrobe of choice for Bob Crane's character of Colonel Hogan in the popular TV series Hogan's Heroes. This same jacket, manufactured by the studio's costume department, had previously been worn by Frank Sinatra in the film Von Ryan's Express. The bomber jacket has made appearances in non-war films, as well. A teenage C. Thomas Howell wears a black A-2 for nearly the entire length of the classic horror film The Hitcher. Dwight Schultz' character H. M. Murdock on 1980s TV show The A-Team wore an A-2 Jacket with a tiger printed on the back along with the words 'DA NANG 1970'. His character wore the jacket throughout the show's 5 seasons. Also, in the anime Hetalia: Axis Powers, the character America is most always seen wearing an A-2 jacket with the number '50' on the back in white. Arnold Schwarzenegger also appeared an wearing A-2 with police badge in his new 2013 movie The Last Stand.
In the 2000s (decade), the A-2 became a popular presidential garment: both George W. Bush and Barack Obama have worn them in photo ops at military installations.
See also
Cooper A-2 jacket
MA-1 bomber jacket
References
 "A2 Contract Dates-Up-Dated".
 "War bonds". Lewiston Morning Tribune. (Idaho). (advertisement). October 3, 1942. p. 8.
 Gary Eastman, "Type A-2 Flight Jacket Identification Manual" (Latimer Trend & Company Ltd., Plymouth, UK, 2012)
 "Spec. 94-3040 Jackets, Flying Type A-2".
 "1943 Australian "V505" Flight Jacket".
 AFI 36-2903, page 114
7. "A2 Jacket" Nose Art and bomber jackets
The MA-1 bomber jacket (also known as the MA-1 flight jacket) is an American military jacket which was developed in the 1950s.[1] The MA-1 and its predecessor, the B-15 flight jacket, were originally developed and needed at that time because the emergence of the jet age created new requirements for pilot performance, safety, and comfort.
Contents
1 History
2 Characteristics
3 Civilian use
4 In popular culture
5 See also
6 References
History
Prior to the invention of jet aircraft, fleece-lined leather jackets were issued to flight personnel. However, the new jets could fly at much higher altitudes and in much colder temperatures than propeller aircraft. If the heavy, bulky leather jackets became wet from rain (when the pilot walked to his aircraft) or from perspiration, the water would freeze at high altitudes, making the jackets cold and uncomfortable. Also, the new jets were more streamlined in design. Cockpits were cramped and filled with new equipment. Speedy, unimpeded ingress and egress from cockpits became even more critical for safety. Rather than bulky leather, a sleek, lightweight yet warm jacket was needed for the new jet technology.
To meet these needs, a new type of flight jacket was developed from the existing B-15 jacket, which was initially produced in cotton, but later produced in the same pattern but in high quality nylon. The B-15 had a wool collar with pile carried over from the earlier B-10 that was found to interfere with straps in practice. Nylon had been discovered prior to World War II but it was not used in flight clothing until after the war, possibly because the demand for nylon for items such as parachutes consumed the available supply during the war.
The first MA-1 jackets were issued to United States Air Force and Navy pilots and flight crews. Small numbers were also issued to Army flight personnel. MA-1 jackets first appeared in Europe in very small quantities in the mid-to-late 1950s probably on the black market and at sales of government surplus.
In 1963, Alpha Industries won the contract to manufacture the MA-1.[2] More MA-1 jackets appeared in Europe as Alpha and later Rothco[1] began to export MA-1 jackets and other military clothing to European Air Forces and commercial customers.
Characteristics
The MA-1 was designed by the United States Air Force to serve as an intermediate weight flight jacket for use all year. This was accomplished by manufacturing the MA-1 from very high quality nylon fabrics and polyester interlinings. The lightweight nylon design allowed the pilot to wear the jacket open and be comfortable in warm weather. Upon entering the aircraft, the pilot could zip the jacket closed and be afforded ample protection against the cold conditions encountered in flight.
The MA-1 underwent design modifications during its long history of use but the classic highly functional design has remained basically the same. The original design was contained in United States government military specification "MIL-J-8279." Changes to the jacket were periodically made by the Air Force because of the introduction of new textiles, new sewing techniques or new aircraft cockpit design. The military specification was amended to reflect the changes which was signaled by adding a letter to the Mil. Spec. For example, MA-1 specifications progressed from Mil-J-8279 to J-8279A, then J-8279B, J-8279C, et cetera. The most important revision, Mil-J-8279F, was issued in November 1978[citation needed]. The final revision before being phased out by the United States military is "Mil-J-8279G" and "Mil-J-8279G AMENDMENT-1", introduced in March 1988 and October 1990 respectively. These two final revisions were designated for ground crew only as fire-resistant CWU-36/P and CWU-45/P were issued to aircrew.
The MA-1 was initially produced in midnight blue and sage green. Blue was the original color used by the military, but it was soon replaced by green. During the Korean War (1950–1953) mixing flight clothing from multiple time periods and colors was not unusual. Presumably, the green was eventually adopted because it blended more easily with the environment should the pilot need camouflage protection on the ground[citation needed]. During the Vietnam War, there were variant commercial copies of MA-1 in camouflage pattern which were purchased by American servicemen. While no longer issued by the United States military, it remains popular among many United States-allied armed forces (e.g. Israel, Japan, South Korea, Philippines, Taiwan (ROC) and Thailand).
Civilian use
MA-1 jackets have become fashionable worldwide, especially in the United States, Japan and the United Kingdom. Many American clothing manufacturers, formerly military contractors now produce a variety of colors in addition to the traditional.
Because the MA-1 Jacket not only keeps the wearer warm, but is highly comfortable, the jacket is very popular in Europe and Australia during winter. The jacket is also worn in North America, where it is commonly known as a bomber jacket, especially in areas with cold weather. These jackets became popular in the late 1970s with punks, mods and skinheads. During the 1980s the jackets had extensive exposure in style magazines such as The Face and i-D, often reimagined by clothes designers of the time.
The MA-1 is also in use in several police forces where cold weather is a part of everyday life. They were chosen over several other designs primarily for the sturdy construction and the heavy insulation needed in cold temperatures.
In popular culture
The iconic jacket has been featured in films, television shows and a novel:
Steve McQueen wore one in his final film performance, The Hunter (1980).
Richard Dean Anderson wore one in several episodes of MacGyver, season 4 (1988–1989).
Sean Penn wore a sage green MA-1 when off-duty in the film Colors (1988).
Kevin Costner wore a sage green MA-1 jacket in Bull Durham (1988).
Michael Douglas wore one in the film Basic Instinct (1992).
Kiefer Sutherland, as Jack Bauer, wore one in 24 (e.g., season 2 (2002) episodes 02–04, and season 4 (2005) episode 24).
Cayce Pollard wore a black MA-1 in the 2003 science fiction novel Pattern Recognition, in which author William Gibson wrote the jacket was "as purely functional and iconic a garment as the previous century produced".[3]
Several characters wore the jacket in the television series The 100 (2014–2019), including Raven Reyes, Monty Green, Jasper Jordan, John Murphy and Finn Collins.
In Pulp Fiction, Bruce Willis' character is often seen wearing a brown suede MA-1 bomber jacket
In the popular Manga Series Tokyo Revengers, members of the Delinquent Gang "Valhalla" wear white MA-1 bomber jackets with their gangs insignia printed on the back
See also
Blouson
Letter jacket
MA-2 bomber jacket
Valley Apparel L.L.C., an earlier manufacturer
References
 "Alpha Industries: Authentic Mens Jackets - MA-1, M-65 and N-3B". www.meanandgreen.com. Retrieved 2017-09-13.
 "A Legacy of Innovation". Alpha Industries. 2018. Retrieved 30 September 2019. 1963 Awarded contracts for MA-1 and N-2B. Alpha Industries is awarded its first contracts for several outerwear styles, including the MA-1 jacket and N-2B parka. These military jackets become iconic in the coming years.
 Gibson, William (2003). Pattern Recognition. Penguin Books. p. 11. ISBN 9780241953532.
Cirker, Alan D. THE ALPHA STORY: 50 YEARS OF AN AMERICAN MILITARY CLOTHING COMPANY. Baker Hill Publishing, 2009. 131pp.
Imai, Kesaharu. SUIT UP!: THE FLIGHT JACKET. World Photo Press (Japan), 1993. 367pp.
Imai, Kesaharu. FLIGHT JACKET ALL CATALOG. World Photo Press (Japan), 1994. 223pp.
Maguire, Jon & Conway, John. AMERICAN FLIGHT JACKETS. Schiffer, 1994. 277pp.
Nelson, Derek & Parsons, Dave. HELL-BENT FOR LEATHER: THE SAGA OF THE A-2 AND G-1 FLIGHT JACKETS. Motorbooks, 1990. 160pp.
Thompson, Leroy. UNIFORMS OF THE INDO-CHINA AND VIETNAM WARS. Blandford Press, 1984. 160pp.
Perfecto is a secondary brand of "lancer fronted" leather motorcycle jackets designed by Irving Schott and manufactured by American clothing company Schott NYC. The first jacket was introduced in 1928,[1] making it the first such styled leather motorcycle jacket. They were worn by such icons as Marlon Brando in the 1953 seminal movie The Wild One,[2] by punk rock pioneers The Ramones in the 1970s and styled by fashion designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier in the 1980s.[3]
Established as a manufacturer of motorcycle clothing since 1913,[4] Schott, a Russian immigrant, named the brand after his favorite cigar as he did not think his Jewish family name would sell the garments. It is said to be the first such jacket designed to feature a zipper and came to define the look of motorcycle jackets since [1][5]
Schott Bros later manufactured a very similar jacket for the Beck label, of which he was previously a representative, called the Beck 333 Northeaster and in the late 1940s, Schott Bros introduced a new jacket based on the original Perfecto design called the 613. It was soon nicknamed the "One Star" because it had a star on each shoulder epaulette. These jackets have a snug, almost tailored fit, which is suited for motorcycle riding but are short by today's standards.[citation needed]
Contents
1 Perfecto timeline
1.1 Late 1940s
1.2 Early 1950s
1.3 Early 1960s
1.4 Late 1960s
1.5 Early 1970s
1.6 Mid - late 1970s
1.7 Early 1980s
1.8 Mid 1980s
1.9 Late 1980s / 1990s
1.10 Today
2 See also
3 References
Perfecto timeline
The 613 and 618 Perfectos have been produced for more than 50 years, so finding out when a vintage jacket was made can be difficult. There have, however, been slight variations in the design over time. Some of the details in the timeline below overlap.
Late 1940s
The 613 One Star is introduced. Jackets are made out of horsehide. Neck label is rectangular, black with Perfecto App U.S Pat ??? Genuine Horsehide Front Quarter - Style Quality printed in gold letters. TALON main and cuff zippers and 'Miter' belt buckle (rectangular with mitered corners). Side pockets are at an approx. 60° angle and breast pocket at a 50° angle, zippers close up. Jackets have snaps for attaching fur collar, no snaps on collar, plain snaps, sleeves are double stitched, epaulettes are also double stitched and have a rounded end. Stitching on collar is placed further in than it is on lapels. Lining is black with grid stitching. Straight lower back panel and underside of sleeves are one piece. Inner lower facing and sleeve plackets are made out of faux leather/vinyl.
Early 1950s
The 618 is introduced. It is identical to the 613 except for the lack of stars. In The Wild One, the stars on the epaulettes and the snaps on the collar of Marlon Brando's jacket were not original, but added to the jacket. Its popularity and connection to The Wild One movie led to it being banned from sale in many districts of the England and USA[2] and becoming a symbol of rebellious youth.[6]
Early 1960s
Jackets are made out of steerhide. Neck label is black with Style Quality Perfecto Genuine Steerhide All Hand Cut in creme and red letters on coat of arms/crest. Small long white size tag with black letters directly below neck label. Schott Bros. Inc. printed on leather neck hanger. Stitching on collar and lapels is placed at the same distance from edge. Passants have one seam and a pointy end. ESKO cuff zippers. Side pockets are at an approx. 55° angle and breast pocket at a 65° angle.
Late 1960s
Neck label is black with bull and cactus, Perfecto genuine steerhide - handcut Schott Bros. Small white size tag with red letters directly below neck label.
Early 1970s
Neck label is square, black with Schott in white curly letters above orange and yellow coat of arms (Griffin and unicorn on the sides of it and an S in the middle). Size tag still on lower edge, white with red numbers.
Mid - late 1970s
1970s Schott Perfecto 613
Jackets are made out of steerhide (613/618) and naked cowhide (118, introduced in 1977). Neck label is rectangular, creme white with bull in upper left corner, Perfecto in yellow diagonal stripe and by Schott Bros. in lower right corner. Small white size tag with red letters directly to the right of neck label. TALON cuff zippers. Side pockets are at an approx. 55° angle and breast pocket at a 60° angle.
Early 1980s
Schott NYC appears on neck label, small white size tag with black letters directly to the right of neck label, tag with American flag and Made in U.S.A directly to the right of neck label (under small white size tag). Nothing printed on leather neck hanger. Schott (YKK) main zipper, EMAR cuff zippers and rectangular belt buckle with oval sides. Pocket zippers now close down. Lining goes all the way down inside of jackets, leather sleeve plackets. A slight dip in bottom part of lower back panel, otherwise straight.
Mid 1980s
Schott stops producing the 613 One Star. Underarm footballs, two piece underside sleeves, oval lower back panel, inside pocket and snaps on collar are introduced. Snaps for attaching fur collar are removed (no fur collar produced). Snaps have Schott stamped on them. Motorcycle rider instead of bull appears on neck label, size is printed on the American flag tag. Leather inner lower facing. Side pockets are at an approx. 60° angle and breast pocket at a 50° angle (reverse from what they were in the 1960s-70's and more like they were in the 1950s), side pockets are moved further away from the center of the jackets and down a bit. Square thin buckle is introduced.
Late 1980s / 1990s
Schott reintroduces the 613 One Star (in steerhide with mid 70's neck label) but without snaps for the fur collar and with inner pocket. Snaps on 613 are plain. Snaps for fur collar back on 618/118. Style 118 is updated to a fuller fit, 613/618 retain original slim fit. Schott NYC chrome main zipper, IDEAL sleeve zippers and bigger square belt buckle (by Century Canada) are introduced. Side pockets are at an approx. 60° angle and breast pocket at a 45° angle.
Today
Current production Schott Perfecto 613
Style 118 is fitted with new chrome pocket zippers with different pulls (Schott recently switched back to the original chain zipper pulls) and a snap under the belt buckle to prevent it from damaging the gas tank. The side pockets on the 118 have supposedly been moved closer to the center of the jacket for easier access. Inside map pocket moved to the lower right and a leather trimmed inside breast pocket added on the left. The 613/618 have not been updated since the early 1990s.
See also
Panzer wrap, a short black leather jacket issued to Wehrmacht tank crews that fastened with buttons rather than a zip.
Reefer jacket, a hip length double breasted leather coat issued to pilots, German U-boat officers, and Red Army commissars during the Great Patriotic War.
References
One for the History Books Schott NYC
 Fashion in Popular Culture: Literature, Media and Contempora by Joseph Hancock, Toni Johnson-Woods, Vicki Karaminas, Intellect Books, 2013 ISBN 1841507164,
 International Directory of Company Histories, Volume 67 by Jay P. Pederson University of California, 2005 p.338
 Nothing in itself: complexions of fashion, Volume 24 of Theories of Contemporary Culture Series, Herbert Blau, Indiana University Press, 1999 ISBN 0253335876
 WALNECK'S CLASSIC CYCLE TRADER, DECEMBER 2005, Causey Enterprises, LLC
 Out Sep 2005, Vol. 14, No. 3, ISSN 1062-7928, Here Publishing
 The Fashion Reader: Second Edition, Linda Welters, Abby Lillethun, Linda Welters, Berg, 2011 ISBN 184788590X,
Avirex is an American company that designs, manufactures and markets clothing lines. It was founded by Jeff Clyman in 1944 as a brand for military apparel. Contrary to popular belief, Avirex was not a U.S. military supplier during World War II.[citation needed] In 1987 the company worked on re-issuing of A-2 jacket for the United States Air Force.
In 2006, Jeff Clyman sold the Avirex brand and trademark as well as the Avirex sportswear and hip-hop fashion lines in Europe, Japan, and the United States. The new owner of the US Avirex brand in the United States is Centric Brands.
See also
Alpha Industries
Schott NYC
Al Wissam
References
External links
Avirex USA
Avirex EUROPE
Former Website
Avirex Japan
Avirex, Japan
Bags Avirex Official Website
lpha Industries is an American clothing manufacturer founded in 1959 in Knoxville, Tennessee and specialized in American military style and fashion apparel. Alpha makes items such as flight jackets and vests, and has made jackets for the military of the United States like the M65 Jacket for over half a century.
Contents
1 History
1.1 Superior Togs Corporation
1.2 Creation of Alpha Industries
1.3 Vietnam War
1.4 End of Cold War
1.5 Fashion brand
1.6 Partnership
2 References
3 External links
History
Superior Togs Corporation
Alpha Industries has its roots in a family of companies comprising Superior Togs Corporation, Rolen Sportswear and Dobbs Industries. Through the 1940s, these companies were linked by common ownership and an identical business of manufacturing flight jackets for the United States military.
In January 1948, Robert Lane and his wife Helen incorporated Superior Togs Corporation in order to manufacture flight jackets on a United States Department of Defense contract.
In 1952, Superior Togs Corporation was shut down when the government suspended the contract. Robert Lane set up a new company called Rolen Sportswear, an equivalent of Superior Togs under a different name. They picked up the same United States Department of Defense (DOD) contracts and used the same Elizabeth, New Jersey factory.[citation needed]
By 1957, Robert Lane created Dobbs Industries in Knoxville, Tennessee where labor was plentiful and manufacturing costs were substantially less.[citation needed]
Creation of Alpha Industries
Robert Lane was accused in 1959 of bribing a government official for a Department of Defense contract. As such his business and any business associated with him were barred from ever obtaining another contract from the government. Although he held 90% of the shares to Dobb Industries, this still spelled the end for Samuel Gelber, Lane's accountant, who split with Lane and approached Herman "Breezy" Wynn, founder of Wynn Industries Group who is credited for the early success of Alpha Industries. Because of his knowledge of the textile industry and because of his numerous resources, Mr. Herman “Breezy” Wynn allowed Alpha Industries to grow from its humble beginnings. On October 17, 1959, Gelber incorporated his new company, Alpha Industries, in Knoxville, Tennessee.[1]
Alpha Industries began operations making military clothing in the basement of a rented Knoxville factory using leased sewing machines and only a few employees. Department of Defense contracts were initially difficult to secure in a time of peace, however, the start of the Vietnam War meant a sudden increase in demand for military clothing and Alpha's growth rapidly accelerated.
In 1963, Alpha Industries started to produce the MA-1 bomber jacket.[2]
Vietnam War
Due to the unusual nature of manufacturers who worked by government contract the multiple companies were persuaded to work collaboratively through subcontracts and affiliations, which was known as the Wynn Confederation. It was a series of DOD contract manufactures who would lease sewing machinery to other companies within the Confederation, provide them with technical assistance, and provide and train employees. Wynn would also locate the fabric and component suppliers for the Confederation groups. This subcontracting made it possible for fledgling groups like Alpha to acquire work and survive past its first 12 months of existence.
With America's escalating involvement in Vietnam starting in the 1960s, companies like Alpha found themselves inundated with work. Alpha expanded considerably over the decade and soon occupied all four floors of the 614 11th Street factory. The government's demand for quality control brought John Niethammer in who became a significant player to Alpha's expansion..
When the Vietnam War ended, Alpha made the rounds through army surplus stores. The only changes Alpha would make over the next 20 years for the public market were in the color of the jackets.[3]
In 1970, Alpha Industries started to cater to the consumer market.[2] In the 1970s, the Department of Defense deemed it necessary to equip every man with separate clothing for every possible weather scenario they could encounter. This meant a busy period for manufacturers like Alpha. Because DOD contracts were given preferably to small companies, Alpha did not want to risk increasing its employment to more than 500 workers, so new subcontracting groups were created, like Summit Apparel and Benton Manufacturing. With a move to a larger factory in 1980, Alpha was able to devote whole buildings to single types of jackets. The new factory saw the production of 550,000 field jackets per year.
End of Cold War
The floor of the Knoxville, Tennessee factory during the 1980s
MA-1 Bomber Jacket.
Alpha soon began to sell commercially. By this time Alpha had dabbled in commercial sales in between DOD contracts through subcontracted groups such as Dobbs Apparel.
In 1982, Samuel Gelber died at the age of 67 and left the company to his wife Mildred with the assistance of John Niethammer and her son-in-law Alan Cirker. The new management expanded the commercial side of its business.[citation needed]
The Reagan administration called for an increase in DOD spending which exceeded 1.8 billion dollars in textile alone. Alpha became the leading producer of the new CWU 36/P and 45/P Nomex flight jackets which replaced the MA-1 bomber jacket, and the Gore-Tex systems which replaced the parkas.[4]
By the mid-1980s Alpha found that some of their products were envied by foreign military groups and were recommended to military attachés by the United States Defense Logistics Agency (DLA). In deals that required foreign groups to purchase through American manufacturers Alpha found itself with new customer bases in other countries.
The end of the Cold War brought the Peace Dividend and by the early 1990s, DOD spending had decreased by 75%. Liberalization of trade barriers and a reduction of duties also led to a breakdown in the American apparel industry. Those factors highly threatened to end Alpha Industries. The Gulf War and Iraq War did not noticeably increase the demand for military apparel. The military's focus became on technology and electronics that would reduce the use of human life. Therefore, Alpha turned more and more to the commercial sale of its products.[5]
Fashion brand
Alpha Industries is now a manufacturer of military style apparel with customers ranging from U.S. surplus to stores across Europe and Asia. Alpha now creates replicas of famous military wear as well as casual clothing that is military-inspired. Children's clothing and accessories are also made by Alpha Industries.
In 1992, the brand switched to the flying A logo to adapt to the internationalization of their sales.[6] During the latter decades of the 20th century Alpha produced clothing for military organizations throughout the world including Argentina, Australia, Belgium, Chile, Ecuador, The Netherlands, Jordan, New Guinea, Saudi Arabia, Singapore, Taiwan, and Uruguay.
Alpha has expanded into networks of international distributors, retailers, and internet sellers. Supplementing its small American factory base (still located in Knoxville), Alpha has expanded its range of manufacturing outside of the United States. Much of their product is made in China.
In 2008, Alpha Industries started to partner with other clothing brands to release new lines of products.[6][2]
In 2011, Michael Cirker replaced his father as CEO of Alpha Industries. While the father Alan had focused on international distribution, the son Michael turned Alpha into a fashion brand.[2]
Partnership
In October 2020, Alpha Industries partners with A Bathing Ape. The partnership features all the garments to dual branding of patchwork, embroidery and other streetwear textures.[7]

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