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General info:
Schott NYC (Schott Bros) is an American clothing manufacturing company located in New York City. The company was founded in 1913 by brothers Irving and Jack Schott. Schott NYC was the first company to put a zipper on a jacket[1][2][3] and they created the classic Perfecto motorcycle jacket, which was made popular by films such as The Wild One (1953). The company made clothing for the United States Armed Forces during World War II and later also for American law enforcement. Schott NYC is still owned by the Schott family and still manufacture much of their clothing in the United States.
Contents
1 The Perfecto motorcycle jacket
2 Other classic jacket designs
3 External links
4 References
The Perfecto motorcycle jacket
Main article: Perfecto motorcycle jacket
A Schott 613 Perfecto motorcycle jacket
Schott NYC is perhaps most well known for their Perfecto motorcycle jackets. In 1928 Irving Schott designed and produced the first ever leather motorcycle jacket, he named it the "Perfecto" after his favorite cigar. The jackets were made out of horsehide, had a belted front, D-pocket, flap change pocket, zippered sleeve cuffs and shoulder epaulettes. This classic motorcycle jacket was a double riders jacket design which meant that one part of the front zipper was located a couple of inches in. When zipped up this created a seal where no air would pass through when riding a motorcycle.
In the late 1940s a new design was introduced - the 613. It was nicknamed "the One Star" because it had a star on each shoulder epaulette. In the early 1950s another version of the jacket was introduced - the 618. The 618 had no stars on the shoulder epaulettes. Stores that carried the jackets often had problems with people stealing the stars of the 613 so the 618 became more commercially viable. Marlon Brando wore a 618 in the movie The Wild One (1953), the stars on his jacket were not original but added to the jacket. There has been no word on where this jacket is today. Because of the film, which was the first outlaw biker movie, the black motorcycle jacket became synonymous with bad attitude and was banned from many American schools during the 1950s.
U.S. seminal punk rock band The Ramones wore Schott Perfecto leather jackets as part of their distinctive uniform look. Japanese rock band Guitar Wolf have their own 613 Perfecto design called 613GW.
Other classic jacket designs
During World War II Schott NYC (being one of several contractors) manufactured the wool naval pea coat for the US Navy.[4] These classic designs are still manufactured by Schott NYC today. Another classic jacket design manufactured by the company is the Café racer leather motorcycle jacket. Café racer jackets are single rider jackets that have a stand-up collar. Peter Fonda wore a Café racer style jacket in the movie Easy Rider (1969).
External links
Official website
References
Cooper, Wilbert L. (2013-03-08). "The First Wild One: The origin of the motorcycle jacket". Vice Magazine. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
"Schott NYC Perfecto: The original rebel jacket". 2016. Archived from the original on 2016-11-04. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
Tanaka, Rin (December 10, 2012). Schott NYC: 100 Years of an American Original. Japan: Cycleman Book. p. 160. ISBN 978-0988918900.
International Directory of Company Histories, Volume 67, Jay P. Pederson, Gale, 2 Feb 2005
Categories: Clothing companies of the United StatesManufacturing companies based in New York CityClothing companies established in 19131913 establishments in New York City
The Classic American Success Story
Schott's heritage is a true-blue, real-deal, piece of Americana. The iconic styles produced by hand for over 100 years have become infused in American culture and have served as battle flags for the American spirit.
Perfecto® label inside vintage leather jacket
In 1913, as Ford's new Model T began to crowd the already bustling streets of New York City, two brothers, the sons of a Russian immigrant, went after their piece of the American Dream. Irving and Jack Schott started making raincoats in a basement on the Lower East Side of Manhattan which were then sold by street peddlers door to door. Irving Schott's leather jackets were lovingly branded with the name of his favorite cigar - the Perfecto. By the mid-twenties, Schott NYC was revolutionizing the way Americans dressed for the outdoors when they were the first to put a zipper on a jacket. Eager to innovate, it was no surprise that Irving Schott then set his sights on another American classic in the making - the motorcycle. In 1928, Irving Schott designed and produced the first leather motorcycle jacket. Retailing for $5.50 at a Long Island Harley Davidson distributor, the Perfecto® was durable, rugged, and immediately embraced. To this new generation of "bikers," the Perfecto® was a symbol of the excitement, adventure and danger that fueled their fascination with motorcycles.
Vintage photos of fighter pilots in their leather jackets / General George Patton in sheepskin leather jacket
But as the country and the world turned its attention overseas, so did Schott. Commissioned by the US Air Force at the start of WWII, Irving Schott designed and produced a "bomber jacket" that would serve and protect Our Boys as they fought for liberty in the air over Europe and the Pacific. And on deck, servicemen kept out the cold with Schott's classic melton wool naval pea coat. Rugged and warm, these leather and wool jackets would be produced by Schott for the US Military
for the next 60 years.
Marlon Brando in Schott Leather Jacket in the movie The Wild One / James Dean in leather jacket
With WWII over, this country was witnessing the rise of a new rebellion one that would be fought with fast cars and Rock and Roll. In 1954, the now cult classic "The Wild Ones" featured the hot young actor, Marlon Brando, perched on his motorcycle wearing his Schott Perfecto®. The subsequent spike in popularity of the Perfecto® surprisingly resulted in decreased sales. The jackets were banned by school systems around the country because they symbolized a burgeoning teen demographic, the hoodlum. Just one year later, the Perfecto® was catapulted to the height of its popularity when a love for speed ended the life of the quintessential hoodlum. It is said that James Dean could hardly ever be seen without his Perfecto®.
The band The Ramones in their Schott Perfecto® Jackets / Lead singer in a rock band wearing a leather jacket / Joan Jett in Schott Perfecto® Jacket
Throughout the 70s and 80s Schott became synonymous with the punk rock movement. The current wave of rebellion came to the streets of downtown New York City through underground music venue, CBGB. The Schott Perfecto® was the uniform for rock stars like The Ramones, Blondie, Joan Jett and The Sex Pistols.
Exterior of the Schott Factory in the 1980sRacks of Schott and Perfecto® labels
As the world grew smaller and international trade became common place through online shopping and global markets, Schott expanded overseas where "Made in America" was revered and coveted. Peacoats, Duffle coats, flight jackets, motorcycle jackets, nylon outerwear, knits and sportswear became available worldwide as Schott NYC represented the heritage of America and the rebel inside everyone.
The classic Schott Perfecto® label with motorcycle rider
2013 - Celebrating Schott's 100th Anniversary. As we celebrate our first hundred years, Schott NYC is still owned and run by the third and fourth generations of the Schott family who still manufacture most of their clothing in the United States. In an old brick building, the classic styles that have, and will continue to, connect with the American spirit are cut and sewn by the hands of trained craftspeople. There is a feeling with putting on a Perfecto® that cannot be replicated or described. It is a persona, the history of America's bad boy, seeped into the heavy cowhide and chrome hardware. A strong sense of American pride is behind every Peacoat's anchor buttons. The courage to face the uncertainty on the open road and all the freedom that comes with it, lives on in the hearts of the Schott family as they look towards the next hundred years as a true American Original.
Company Perspectives:
We are a true-blue, real-deal, piece of Americana. Quality, innovation, and individuality define everything we do and every jacket we make. Whether protecting WWII fly boys in the air over Europe or infuriating the establishment on the backs of Brando and Dean, our jackets have become infused in American culture and have served as battle flags for the American spirit.
Key Dates:
1913:
Schott Bros. is founded by Irving and Jack Schott.
1915:
Company opens manufacturing facility in Staten Island; puts "Perfecto" label on outerwear.
1925:
Irving Schott is the first clothier to sew a zipper on a jacket.
1928:
Schott Bros. designs the first leather motorcycle jacket; manufacturing facility moves to South Amboy, New Jersey.
1930:
Schott Bros. supplies "bomber jackets" to World War II pilots.
1940:
Manufacturing moves to Perth Amboy, New Jersey.
1954:
Schott motorcycle jackets are popularized by Marlon Brando in The Wild Ones.
1963:
Schott Bros. begins selling "Perfecto" jackets in Europe.
1985:
Company moves to 250,000-square-foot facility in Perth Amboy.
1993:
Schott introduces classic naval pea coats.
1997:
Company adds its first line exclusively for women.
1998:
Company acquires U.B. TUFF.
2003:
Schott re-releases limited edition replica of original "Perfecto" jacket.
Company History:
Schott Brothers, Inc. is one of the largest manufacturers of American-made men's and women's outerwear. The company is most well known for its tradition of creating quality leather jackets, especially the Schott "Perfecto." The "Perfecto" is the original biker jacket made famous by actor Marlon Brando in the 1950s classic film The Wild Ones. Schott's signature apparel is manufactured at the 250,000-square-foot company headquarters in Perth Amboy, New Jersey. Schott sells its handmade quality jackets and accessories worldwide. The company product line has evolved from the original sheepskin-lined raincoats sold door-to-door in New York City, to more than 100 different garments and accessories in men's and women's outerwear and sportswear lines, which are sold in retail stores and through the Internet. The company produces and sells approximately 350,000 to 400,000 apparel items annually.
Four generations of the Schott family have been involved in overseeing the privately owned specialty apparel business. The family has made it a priority to maintain the commitment to handcrafted quality intended by founder Irving Schott. In addition to the traditional leather outerwear created by Schott, the company produces wool peacoats, as well as jackets made from corduroy, down, and sateen. Schott's clothing lines include retro, motorcycle, American classic, military, wool, nylon, and women's lines.
A Humble Beginning: 1913-20s
In 1913, Irving Schott, son of Russian immigrants, founded Schott Bros. with his brother Jack. Their first humble workspace was in the basement of a tenement building on Manhattan's Lower East Side. There they hand cut and sewed sheepskin-lined raincoats, which were sold door-to-door. According to the creators, durability and functionality were the primary features of their high quality, handcrafted jackets.
Two years later the brothers had generated enough business to move to a manufacturing site in Staten Island. That same year Irving gave the brand name "Perfecto" to Schott Bros. leather jackets. The "Perfecto" name referred to Irving's favorite Cuban cigars, which were a regular accessory of the company founder. Schott's Perfecto jacket would be recognized as the finest American-made leather jacket for more than 30 years.
In the 1920s Irving and Jack were recognized as innovators in the apparel industry. First they revolutionized American-made outerwear by being the first in the industry to sew a zipper on a jacket. They also benefited from the emergence and growing popularity of motorcycles. In 1928 Irving had a vision of what would become an American classic when he designed and produced the first motorcycle jacket. Wool linings made it warmer, heavy grade leather made it protective when necessary, and a zipper made it more wind and weather resistant. That classic leather jacket sold for just $5.50 at a Harley Davidson dealer on Long Island. According to the Schott web site, "The Perfecto was durable, rugged, and immediately embraced. To this new generation of 'bikers,' the Perfecto was a symbol of the excitement, adventure and danger that fueled their fascination with motorcycles." To accommodate sales growth, Schott Bros. moved its manufacturing operation to South Amboy, New Jersey.
Outfitting the Military: 1930s-40s
Schott Bros. quality was recognized by the U.S. Air Force prior to World War II. The company was commissioned to design and manufacture "bomber jackets" for Air Force pilots. In addition, Schott Bros. became a major supplier of the U.S. military forces fighting abroad with nylon flyers for the Air Force and pea coats for the Navy. A tradition of providing for the American military forces was begun, and it continued for 60 years.
In 1940 Schott again moved its manufacturing business--design, production and storage--this time to nearby Perth Amboy, New Jersey. By 1947 a second generation joined in managing the business--Irving's son Mel.
Big Screen Exposure: 1950s
Schott Bros. apparel made its big screen debut in 1954 when Marlon Brando wore a Perfecto jacket in the cult classic The Wild Ones. The Perfecto gained national exposure and instant popularity, but sales declined because school districts banned the jackets due to their association with youth rebelliousness. By that time the Schotts had decided to reserve the Perfecto label for only their finest motorcycle jackets. Sales figures soon turned around for the Perfecto jacket, however. The following year, sales increased after the death of James Dean; the "hood" who often donned a Perfecto, "catapulted the motorcycle jacket back in vogue," according to the Schott web site. The jacket retailed for $49.
Up until the 1960s, the Schott family's focus was on the production side of the business. Irving prided himself on knowing how to operate and repair every machine and tool in the factory. When Milton Perlman joined the company in the 1960s, however, Schott Bros. began to develop a vision that revolved around sales. Perlman was very involved in the business outside of the shop. He would visit stores that sold Schott apparel, listen to their feedback, and respond to it. Perlman's sales vision helped place Schott Bros. on a growth curve for several decades.
Developing Sales Markets: 1960s-80s
Along with Mel Schott, Perlman worked to develop new sales markets for Schott outerwear throughout the United States and abroad. By 1963 the company began marketing the Perfecto jacket in Europe. At home American teens and young adults could be seen in Schott's leather and fringe style vests. It was the 60s, and Schott was part of the unique fashion scene. Perlman also helped the company design and introduce the western leather fringe jacket as well as non-leather jackets. Because the fringe on the popular western jackets had to be cut by hand, the company soon invested in an automated fringe machine.
By the mid-1980s, Mel's son Michael and daughter Roz were on board with the family business, beginning a new generation of family leadership. In 1985 the company moved to a new location in Perth Amboy, a 250,000-square-foot building on Lehigh Street. It was the size of four square blocks. The following year Mel became president of Schott Bros., while 94-year-old Irving retained his title as chairman and CEO. Six years later Irving died, just months from his 100th birthday.
"It's hard to pinpoint exactly when black leather went from outlaw to chic," wrote Robin Updike in the Baltimore Sun. But that acceptance of an expanding leather jacket market would benefit Schott Bros. even though there were significantly more companies in the United States and abroad competing for leather consumers. Schott was committed to its history of quality handcrafted jackets made from the finest leather. That unwavering commitment to quality helped Schott maintain sales despite competition from inexpensive imports.
Expanding Globally: 1990s
By 1993 Schott Bros. had reached $60 million in sales worldwide. In addition to benefiting from worldwide distribution of its apparel through specialty stores on nearly every continent, Schott also gained from relationships with licensees in several countries. In the company's 80th year, Schott Bros. boasted 500 employees worldwide, who had helped produce 350,000 jackets. The Perfecto's price tag had grown to $300.
New apparel lines and a broader distribution market helped Schott achieve sales growth in the 90s. The company also introduced lines of handbags, belts, classically designed travel bags, and even Schott Perfecto school supplies. In addition, Schott brought back the traditional naval peacoat, but with a modern twist. The peacoat came in a variety of colors, rather than just the traditional navy blue. The classic melton wool naval peacoat was Schott's top seller in 1994. The company offered consumers a leather peacoat as well.
In 1994 Schott Bros. was again commissioned to supply the U.S. military. The Department of Defense contracted with Schott Bros. to manufacture jackets for the Air Force. The company unveiled its first women's line in 1997. The new line was the Rose Schott Collection, named for Irving's wife. Schott also expanded outerwear fabric selection, using wearnyl, fleece, and kings wool. Branching out beyond just the leather jacket market helped the company weather the cyclical nature of the leather industry. Because Schott had diversified over the years, the ups and downs of the leather market did not exert such a big impact on its bottom line.
Schott Bros. took a brief foray into the urban hip-hop market in 1998 when it acquired U.B. TUFF, a manufacturer of urban sportswear and outerwear for men and boys. It was Schott Bros. first acquisition, but it did not last long. The enterprise, which targeted a lower price customer base, quickly dissolved not long after it began.
During the late 1990s Schott began to broaden the production line through overseas manufacturing. Some garments just could not be produced at a competitive price in the U.S. plant. Nylon jackets, for example, were more labor intensive and less costly to produce abroad. The availability and quality of raw materials also had an impact on what Schott produced at home. The company put procedures in place to maintain the Schott standard of quality and attention to detail regardless of where the item was created. Generally, the apparel produced overseas were items new to the Schott collection. The company was committed, however, that its classic and signature styles would always be produced in the United States to ensure strict adherence to quality. Schott built relationships with licensees and manufacturing partners in Germany, France, China, and South America, and more recently in Russia.
Making Gains Abroad: 2000 and Beyond
In 2002 Schott Bros. began selling online. Because the Schott collection had grown so broad, the Internet store was one way for the company to make its entire line available to new and returning loyal customers. Most retail stores carried only a portion of the Schott Bros. apparel collection. Internet sales became a small but growing percentage of the company's sales. The Internet was also a way for Schott to connect with its customers. The home page linked to a Blog section where visitors were invited to "share the great things that have happened to you in a Schott jacket. ..."
The Schott Bros. brand had grown in popularity worldwide, especially in Europe where consumers often had a greater appreciation for the classic American styles. Brand recognition and sales were frequently higher in Europe and Asia than in the United States. In Japan, Schott Bros.' reversible sheepskin coat won first place in the "hot fashion contest" at the U.S. Apparel Show in Tokyo in 2002. It was part of the International Fashion Fair, the largest fashion trade show in Japan. The coat scored high both on design and material.
While Schott Bros. expanded its product line to include suede shirts and leather pants, the company regularly brought back replicas of vintage top sellers. In 2003 Schott re-released a limited edition replica of the original Perfecto jacket, a top-of-the-line motorcycle jacket made entirely in the United States. Despite the price tag of $475, sales were strong.
By 2004 more than half of Schott's production still took place domestically, where the company could turn out the products faster and the Schott family could be directly involved in the daily manufacturing process. Exports continued as a large percentage of Schott's annual sales. The Schott family's third and fourth generations were successfully managing and nurturing Irving's venture--with Roz Schott as president; her son Jason as chief marketing officer; Steve Conlin (Mel's son-in-law) as chief executive officer; and Michael's son Oren as chief production officer. (Michael Schott died in 1997 of pancreatic cancer. He had been company president since 1994.) Family members remained committed to knowing every facet of the business, just as great grandfather Irving had. They appeared to possess that same commitment to quality and attention to detail of their company founder.
For 2005, the company refocused outerwear lines into Schott Luxe, for better men's stores; Schott West, western wear; and Schott Work, work wear. The streamlined product lines were developed for a fall 2005 release. The leather jacket market remained strong for Schott, with sales up 15 percent in 2004. The company also planned to move to a smaller, newer facility in Elizabeth, New Jersey, just ten miles from the current headquarters. The company sold its 100-year-old building as part of a city redevelopment project.
Principal Subsidiaries: Schott NYC Corp.
Principal Competitors: Vanson; Marc New York; Energie.
Further Reading:
Czabala, Nancy, "It's Schott to Be Good" Apparel Industry Magazine, Atlanta, January 1997, Vol. 58 , Issue 1, pp. 14-16.
Hermann, Valli, "The Peacoat Resurfaces on a New Wave of Popularity," Austin American Statesman," December 1, 1994, p. E10.
"The History of Schott NYC," http://www.in2schott.dk.history.htm.
Interview with Jason Schott, Chief Marketing Officer, November 2004.
Johnson, Marylin, "Falling for a Classic: Navy-Inspired Peacoat Makes a Casual Statement," Houston Chronicle, November 29, 2001, p. 3.
Klara, Robert, "How to Be a Tough Guy (In One Easy Purchase)," US Airways Inflight Magazine, December 2004.
"Michael Schott (Obituary)," Women's Wear Daily, March 7, 1997, p. 24.
Parola, Robert, "Hot Schott," Daily News Record, January 23, 1989, p. 22.
"U.B. Tuff Acquired by Schott Bros.," Business Wire New York, July 16, 1998, p. 1.
Updike, Robin, "Black Leather, Long the Mark of the Wild Ones, Can Now Be Seen at the Opera," Baltimore Sun, November 25, 1993, p. 7F.
When it comes to the embodiment of Americana, few garments are as historic and versatile as the leather jacket. From its beginnings in the early 1900s to its omnipotent relevance in society today, the way leather jackets have endured throughout American history is not a coincidence, but rather a testament to its timeless charm amongst so many circles.
Getting its start as essential wear in among bikers and the Navy thanks to its durability, not only would this relationship continue—with its peak possibly coming in WWII—the jacket gained steam in sporting, hunting, manual labor, and motorcycling before getting picked up by Hollywood, musicians, and artists. And throughout its history, there is no brand more prevalent and ubiquitous than Schott NYC.
Schott History & Philosophy
Schott-NYC---History,-Philosophy,-&-Iconic-Products Schott NYC's orginal location on the Lower East Side of Manhattan
Schott NYC’s original location on the Lower East Side of Manhattan
Founded in 1913 by brothers Irving and Jack Schott in NYC, the company’s first product was a raincoat which they peddled door to door. By the mid-1920s, Schott was credited with being the first brand to put a zipper on a jacket. It had to start sometime right? In 1928, Irving Schott designed and produced the first motorcycle jacket which retailed for $5.50 at a Long Island Harley Davidson distributor. Christening it the Perfecto (allegedly after his favorite cigar), the Perfecto is from a time when form followed function,. Rather than zip-up the middle of the front, this jacket zips off-center at an angle, and over a placket so as not to let the wind in while on the bike.
Irving Schott, Co-founder of Schott NYC and creator of the Perfecto, via Business Insider
During World War II, Schott was contracted by the US Navy to make the classic 10 Button Pea Coat, Made from thick melton wool and featuring robust fastenings, wide cuffs, and large lapels, the Pea Coat was a fundamental utilitarian jacket that would become some of Schott’s calling cards.
Post-war, arguably the biggest thing to happen to leather jackets was a 1953 movie called The Wild One in which Marlon Brando, playing the rebellious leader of a biker gang, wears a ‘One Star’ later jacket made by Durable. Though this piece was not manufactured by Schott, Brando’s immortalized the leather double rider jacket, a style that Schott already championed with its Perfecto jacket.